I'm looking to delete the cruise control system. It's in need to too much repairs to even consider the cost and I've used CC maybe once in my life. Don't particular care for it.

I've removed what I guess is the pump under what would be the battery tray on RHD models, in front of the air box. I've travel the vacuum lines and from what I've seen, researched here, and tried to sort out of rave it is an independent system with no engine relation, vacuum wise.

However brake systems aren't even close to my specialty and I see the vac line does T in to a line in the firewall behind the booster and it's part of the brake system?
Does this need to be capped there upon removal of everything else?
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The hose from the firewall is awfully cracked and if it's gotta be kept and capped it'll need to be replaced. Haven't traced the routing yet. Not the best back I have and it's killer doing anything under the dash.

 

If your CC doesn't work, or you don't use it just leave the parts in place. Unless you are planning to sell the parts (don't waste your time they are worth very little) you don't need to remove them.

But you asked so re: the Brake/Vent Switch (ERR2622 see pic) it's located above the BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH. The Brake/Vent Switch can be removed without doing anything related to the vacuum hose. Just disconnect the hose and the electrical connector. Or.... just leave it alone. The other end of the Tee/Hose goes to the ACUATOR (ETC7150 see pic ) at the Throttle Body.

Just for giggles you might have wanted to just replace the vacuum hose to the pump, actuator, switch and see if the CC fires up. 9 times out of 10 the CC ECU is toast but you could get lucky.
That's all I got... Good Luck!

 

Given the amount of work involved to delete it you might as well fix it.
Bench test the pump, make sure it works.
Make sure the actuator holds vacuum. Remove the tubing, compress the actuator and place your finger tightly over the nipple. If the actuator expands its bad.
Replace all the vacuum tubing. Cheap and easy.
Clean your Cruise Control switch. Disassemble and clean the contacts.
Replace the D1 cruise ECU with the more reliable D2 cruise ECU.
If that doesn't get it its probably the switch by the brake pedal or the switches on the steering wheel.

I've driven my D1 16hrs straight to Denver with no Cruise. NEVER again!!!

 

It actually wasn't too bad getting out. I was already pulling e etythibg out if the engine compartment, minus the block and ABS to clean out some surface rust and paint/waterproof. Push up and out three rubber boots, swivel, pull out harness, work out if access hole. Hoses were easy. I'd have kept it and put it back to work but the electrical connections under the dash, buttons, etc are just shot out. Previous owner nightmare with that.

I'm kinda simplistic with my vehicles. Especially one as utilitarian in being as our trucks were meant to be. I'm pondering pulling the AC next. Compressors shot, 178K on original block. Cant see adding the strain to the motor and spending the money. Need to do more research on if there's an AC delete pulley on the market, or as I've found in other vehicles, there's a shorter belt everyone just uses... Gotta relook at the current routing, etc.....

Always was untrusting of CC. Sounds weird I'm sure, but just prefer to use my foot. And all this self driving tech car crap scares the hell out of me for sooooooooo many reasons. They can pull my steering wheel out of my hand when it's cold and blue.

I'll bench the pump soon. See what's up. Might be good for a future trade or something....

Appreciate the help with getting to where that firewall hose resides and disconnects. Sounds simple enough.