Swapped out my CC ECU into an early DII. I spliced the new pigtail onto the loom of the car so when this one craps out I can easily slap in a new ECU. Works like a charm.

Thanks to all the folks who contributed to this thread. Very helpful info.

 

Hello Good People,

Would someone please be so kind as to share an image of the under the hood hardware?

I think I may be missing some hardware parts.

T.I.A.

 

 

Thank you Walt!
Much appreciated. I was actually looking to see the necessary hardware from under the hood. I got some vacuum lines that go from the passenger to driver side, and from there along the drivers side moving toward the headlights and there aint nothing connected at that point.

T.I.A.

 

ahh ....reading would be helpful. Under HOOD, not under dash. duh. whoops.

Not sure what line you may be describing.

The cruise control vacuum is under the jack behind the driver's side headlight. A vacuum line runs from there to a 'T' by the master cylinder. One side of that 'T' does through the bulkhead to the brake switch. The other goes to the bellows.

 

The CC vacuum lines all run on the drivers side. It comes from the pump behind and below the drivers side headlight, back to the Master Cylinder area. There it tees, one end goes to the bellows/diaphragm on the throttle linkage, and the other end goes through the firewall and into the cruise switch on the brake pedal.

 

Thank you Walt and Fish for the quick response.

I was in the process of uploading some images when you responded.
Everything looks as mentioned except the vacuum line in the third image, surely this should be going somewhere right?

 

Is this the pump in the green circle?
If yes can you please advise how to get to it?

Thank you all for your patients, I didn't mean to bust up the flow of this thread.

T.I.A.

 

I pulled mine out from underneath. There are three rubber nipply things that I forget how I got in out, but now I have my pump just up in the little area by the jack behind the driver's headlight. I needed a replacement pump, replacement ECU, all new tubing, and some playing around with the brake pedal/brake vacuum switch to get my system working.


Do these tests from the very first post in this thread and it will tell you if any of your equipment need replacing:


Using a volt meter perform the following tests:

Ground Test - From pin 8 (black wire) on the cruise control module plug perform a continuity test to good chassis ground.

Main voltage test - With ignition & cruise control system on (on-off switch on the dash), transfer in high (non difflock) & auto box in 'drive' (you do not have to turn the engine on, just press the brake pedal and shift the gear) connect volt meter between pin 8 (black wire and if difficult, you can connect it to any ground) and pin 10 (white & yellow wire) you should have battery voltage, if not check fuse, under the steering wheel following the diagram there.

Secondary voltage test - Connect volt meter between pin 8 (black wire) and pin 9 (Purple & Green wire) you should have battery voltage if not check lock out relay or gear selection switch.

Brake Pedal Test - Connect volt meter between pin 8 (black wire) & pin 5 (green & purple wire). Press the brake pedal, you should get battery voltage.

Steering Wheel Set / Accel Test - Connect volt meter between pin 8 (black wire) & pin 3 (red & white wire). Press the Set / Accel button, you should get battery voltage.

Steering Wheel Res / Decel Test - Connect volt meter between pin 8 (black wire) & pin 4 (blue & white wire). Press the Set / Accel button, you should get battery voltage.

Vacuum Pump Test - Using a jumper wire connect pin 10 (white & yellow wire) to pin 1 (white & blue) this provides power to the pump. Then using a jumper wire connect pin 6 (black & yellow) AND pin 7 (black & red) to pin 8 (black wire). This should energise the pump & solenoid and the bellows (rubber activator on top of the engine) should contract.

Speed Sensor Test - Connect a volt meter between pin 8 (black) and pin 11 (yellow & pink), drive the car around the block, voltage should increase as speed increases.

If any on the above electrical tests fail, you will need to check the associated wires/relays/fuses/connections. If all the tests pass it is likely the cruise control module has failed.
Now, if you have any problem following these instructions, or need any pictures, let me know.
Good Luck


As for my situation, the Speed Sensor Test, Steering Wheel Res/Decel Test, and Steering Wheel set / Accel Tests all failed, but I found out that the ECU was my main problem and for my situation, these three tests seemed to be irrelevant.


I pulled the brake/vacuum switch off and took it apart, cleaned it and put it back together. Tested the switch with a multimeter set on ohms to see if the connection was working or not. and also tested the vacuum holding power of it off the car too. When I put it back on, I had to put some shims on my brake pedal (basically several strips of aluminum foil tape where it makes contact) to get it to be engaged whenever the brake pedal is not pushed. Once the brake pedal is pushed it should let go of the vacuum pressure.