Cruise Control Fix
#17
Ok, I ran thru all of the tests on the original post and for the "Steering Wheel Set / Accel Test" and the "Steering Wheel Res / Decel Test" when I push those buttons I am only getting 0.02 volts. When I let go of them my meter goes back down to 0.00 volts.
So that is one problem and I am wondering how in the world that could happen???
The other test that didn't have the outcome as specified above was the "Speed Sensor Test" - mine showed between 8.37 - 8.45 volts when driving on the highway no matter if I was going 35 or 60... My speedometer has no problems though. Could my problem possibly be that I am using a digital voltmeter to measure this voltage?
What years are these instructions good for?
So that is one problem and I am wondering how in the world that could happen???
The other test that didn't have the outcome as specified above was the "Speed Sensor Test" - mine showed between 8.37 - 8.45 volts when driving on the highway no matter if I was going 35 or 60... My speedometer has no problems though. Could my problem possibly be that I am using a digital voltmeter to measure this voltage?
What years are these instructions good for?
Last edited by notny41; 08-01-2016 at 08:05 AM.
#19
#20
well, I have the new AMR5700 sitting on my counter, but I wanted to try it with the old aluminum AMR1173 before trying the new one.
Reason being is the ground pin on the AMR1173 was completely corroded over and I was hoping that the old unit was still operable without having to do any modifications to the existing harness.
But I am still very concerned about the two paddle switches on the steering wheel not giving me battery voltage at the ECU harness when I press them. Instead I get microscopic voltage when I press them.
And I am assuming I need to press them from behind is that right?
Also, if the cruise were working, will there be any light on the dash that indicates it is going or not?
Thanks Fish!
Reason being is the ground pin on the AMR1173 was completely corroded over and I was hoping that the old unit was still operable without having to do any modifications to the existing harness.
But I am still very concerned about the two paddle switches on the steering wheel not giving me battery voltage at the ECU harness when I press them. Instead I get microscopic voltage when I press them.
And I am assuming I need to press them from behind is that right?
Also, if the cruise were working, will there be any light on the dash that indicates it is going or not?
Thanks Fish!