The cruise ECU is located behind the glove box. Takes some work to get out, and a lot of work to put it back where it came from, so don't bother. My cruise is working after being down for quite a while largely because it can be so inconvenient to access the various components, so this time I relocated the both vacuum pump and ECU. Now each is easy to get to.

I consider cruise in my Rover vital for trips because the accelerator/ankle angle is awkward and the travel is so large.

 

You are lucky to have a junk yard to go to. Around here, last time I called a junk yard and ask for Land Rover parts, the guy said "ah no, with dont have any of those toyotas or any Japanese SUV for that matter"

 

Thanks for the tip. Did you have to buy a new ECU?

 

Not as lucky as I'd like for this, most the time there aren't any but when I find one I usually get some alright parts. Got my brush guard and tail light Guards from one truck and few interior parts from another but that's been the extent of it, can't even find a damn visor clip haha. Unfortunately I'm moving back to the Midwest so my access isn't much longer.

 

Hi, I too have CC issues.. again... For years the problem was fixed by snipping off the end of the bad hose and re-assembling the T-adapter. This time I traced the forward tube to the pump and replaced it entirely as well as the top tube to the manifold/actuator. The tube to the pedals seems to have/hold pressure and I will check the condition of the peal switches tomorrow although I don't expect any issues.

I noticed from the RAVE manual (Thanks Mike!!) and by using a mirror to check that the forward hose goes on the front, cone shaped, nipple, not the rear, rounded top one. (I was wrong the first time).

The actuator will retract with suction, the hose to the pedals holds pressure, but the hose to the pump let's air escape when blowing or enter when sucking air.

Question: Should this section of hose be airtight on the nipple? If yes, should I apply a small hose clamp or go with a smaller i.d. hose and make a connection to the stock size?

After I look at the pedal switches, what else can I try? Is there a way to see if ECU is having issues? (I once found a post about rear power windows not working due to failed solder in ECU and it gave great directions with photos on where and how to re-solder, anyone know of something similar for the CC leads? (had to ask ;-)

This forum has been great and I look forward to getting the CC fixed as it may become the weekend warrior to/from the mountains (320mi rt)

Thanks! Tom

 

I replaced it, yes. Whether I actually needed to is up for debate. When dealing with troubleshooting the cruise system, or anything on a motor vehicle for that matter, I have to remind myself continually to employ Ockam's Razor which says the simplest explanation is the most likely. Human beings have this strange tendency to leapfrog the simple answers, like a vacuum leak, and point fingers at the vacuum pump, actuator, or ECU. In my case, I have been round and round with the cruise multiple times, working, not working, working, not working. This particular time, I had eliminated all other possibilities (I thought), so I swapped out the ECU, and it started working..... for several weeks.

For this reason on Rovers, if the cruise isn't working, always check for vacuum leaks first. I use the plural on purpose, because you can never assume there is only one leak. If that doesn't work, then check again for vacuum leaks. And if that still doesn't work, check for vacuum leaks one more time. While you're at it, replace every piece of crap they call vacuum line under he hood, whether it's part of the cruise system of not. If you do that, you can move on to blaming other components.

 

The vacuum system in the LR DI is pretty simple. It is independent of the vacuum system for the engine. So for me to look for leaks is as simple as applying electrical power directly to the vacuum pump, if it pulls the gas lever and holds it, I am fine, test done. Then it becomes an electrical problem, Why is the pump not being energized? switch? easy check, harness? not so easy, ECU? bah, too much.

 

The ECU is not as tough as it is reported to access and the cc may be worth it ;-)

Also, there is an outfit in Utah that rebuilds/refreshes modules. I found it on another board and am happy to find/repost if interested.

 

You might check with http://goecm.com/. I don't know for certain they do cruise control modules, but they do pretty much everything else, and if they don't stock it, you can send yours in to be rebuilt. Nice warranty also.

 

Since you replaced the ECU, do you still have the old one? It may suffer from the same type of defects as the window ECU's. Take the board out and give it a good visual inspection.