D1 High Idle issue. (Yet Another)
When you reset do you have to wait for the computer to do all it's tests again before it can pass DEQ? I'm currently waiting for this to happen so I can pass DEQ. They said it may have happened because I recently had a dead battery, could that be the case?
Thanks for all this help. After doing what you said it didn't make a difference with the idle. So I have another question. If I were to disconnect the IACV after I start the engine (and the rpms are low) then rev the RPM up and it should go back down to a low rpm right? It seems like this would at least indicate that the IACV is moving or not because it should act different.
So I don't think it's the idle control valve?
Could it be something with the mass air flow sensor and its riching the mixture? What would happen if I disconnect the MAF? Or someway to test it?
Other things I can test?
Or maybe this means the idle control valve is not working?
Thanks again for any help.
Last edited by land44; Jan 26, 2016 at 09:55 PM.
In fact the "Emissions Readiness" test of my ODB2 reader says that Catalyst, O2 Sensor, and O2 Heater are incomplete. And because of these I can't pass DEQ currently. I ready somewhere else that I have to drive around at different speeds for a while (there is a checklist of what is required, but I can't find that right now.) So I guess my computer is still trying to figure out if the sensors and system is functioning properly. Wish it would hurry up.
My high idle and stumbling issues were caused by a bad MAF. Unplug it while it's running and see if it changes the idle. Mine would idle like complete garbage with it plugged in, and then smooth out when I unplugged it. Installing a new MAF cleared it up completely.
Also, FWIW going on 3 months of driving and 2 months post emission pass, I still have an incomplete reading on my catalyst. I'm not sure it speaks a language my scanner can understand. Everything else shows ready. I think you just need drive time at varying speeds/RPMs to get them ready.
Also, FWIW going on 3 months of driving and 2 months post emission pass, I still have an incomplete reading on my catalyst. I'm not sure it speaks a language my scanner can understand. Everything else shows ready. I think you just need drive time at varying speeds/RPMs to get them ready.
My high idle and stumbling issues were caused by a bad MAF. Unplug it while it's running and see if it changes the idle. Mine would idle like complete garbage with it plugged in, and then smooth out when I unplugged it. Installing a new MAF cleared it up completely.
Also, FWIW going on 3 months of driving and 2 months post emission pass, I still have an incomplete reading on my catalyst. I'm not sure it speaks a language my scanner can understand. Everything else shows ready. I think you just need drive time at varying speeds/RPMs to get them ready.
Also, FWIW going on 3 months of driving and 2 months post emission pass, I still have an incomplete reading on my catalyst. I'm not sure it speaks a language my scanner can understand. Everything else shows ready. I think you just need drive time at varying speeds/RPMs to get them ready.
One thing I did note is the high idle issue starts at 140 degrees F. I wonder what other tests I can do?
ECM reset didn't fix it
Took it to local rover shop and cost $55. (The reset did seem to fix the SRS light)
So I'm back to square one. I have a high idle when the engine temperature goes above 140F. ECM replacement? I'm grabbing at straws. but along those lines I have a few questions.
do I want part # ERR7109 (GEMS 8) for my 96 land rover disco? Also does it make a difference if the ECM came out of a automatic if my vehicle is manual? I can get a used ECM for about $40.
btw: I also pulled my temp sensor and verified it's working. Since this high idle only happens above 140F I wanted to double check the coolant probe. In fact when I disconnect it I can see the temp shuts off on the ODB2 monitor.
Took it to local rover shop and cost $55. (The reset did seem to fix the SRS light)So I'm back to square one. I have a high idle when the engine temperature goes above 140F. ECM replacement? I'm grabbing at straws. but along those lines I have a few questions.
do I want part # ERR7109 (GEMS 8) for my 96 land rover disco? Also does it make a difference if the ECM came out of a automatic if my vehicle is manual? I can get a used ECM for about $40.
btw: I also pulled my temp sensor and verified it's working. Since this high idle only happens above 140F I wanted to double check the coolant probe. In fact when I disconnect it I can see the temp shuts off on the ODB2 monitor.
On the plenum at the throttle body there is a hole with a metal tamper cap, has that cap been removed?
On my 98 instead of doing the reset I asked for the dealer drilled that cap and they bottomed out the screw and ruined my plenum, that's when I learned not to take my old 98 to the dealer, expensive lesson
On my 98 instead of doing the reset I asked for the dealer drilled that cap and they bottomed out the screw and ruined my plenum, that's when I learned not to take my old 98 to the dealer, expensive lesson


