Good Morning. My D1 developed an ignition failure after my disconnecting the ECU fitting, where I was checking ohm resistance to the injector circuits and the inline resistors coming off the ignition coil. On refitting the ECU and reconnecting the battery the problem arose whereby the key is locked in the ignition chamber. The key will move through positions 1, 2, 3, but fail to extract from position “0”. The dash lights and other multi- functions are working, but turning the key into position 3 will not engage the starter relay. The only way to extract the key is to disconnect the battery and power down circuitry by crossing the positive/negative leads. The truck is fitted with a Uniden VS255XR remote controlled security system, which replaced the LR system. The Uniden has worked well for years, with any activations being reset by a key code. A LED would illuminate these activations. At the moment there is no LED highlighted, which I considered as the security is disarmed. The odd thing is the Remote FOB Controller works and is able to engage and disengage the central locking system, with parking lights confirming the function. However, the LED remains ‘OFF’.

The question is could the Uniden security somehow effect the LR coding software hidden somewhere in the ECU circuitry?

I’m at a loss and would cordially appreciate some help and assistance from someone in the know.

Many thanks, Tony G, Christchurch, NZ

 

Sorry, no idea on the Uniden. And this may be stupid, but worth checking: if automatic, do you have the transmission jammed into Park? Seems like the key and starting behavior you're describing are similar to not being in Park. Could be because the transmission interlock behaves similarly to the security system, but I thought it might be worth checking. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the reply, good thought. TG

 

Good Afternoon CantComplain. There is no doubt your advise is far from being stupid and is absolutely spot on. The transmission 'Park' switch is worn and was not disengaging the ignition circuit. I owe you a beer, next time I'm in San Francisco. Grateful thanks.

I have a previous post with the DI intermittently cutting out. I've replaced the MAF, Ignition module, Coils n Leads, Idler Valve, Fuel Cut-out switch, Temp Thermistor, VSS, serviced the fuel rail and Injectors and confirmed ohm resistance. Replaced the Valley gasket and resealed the top manifolds. Reconditioned the Alternator. The truck runs well and purrs along at 100kpm at operating temperature, then will go through a pattern of cutting out. (If you could image a flutter choke valve flicking in/out on a carburettor engine.) There is a gremlin that very good local LR mechanics are unable to source. One response in this Forum is a sticky exhaust valve, a good thought. I kindly ask whether you have any idea? Again, many thanks. Regards Tony G.

 

Wow. Can't believe I actually got one right. I'll take you up on that beer the next time you make it over.

For the other issue, don't think that lightning will strike twice and I'll get another one right. But since you're asking, I looked up your other thread and responded there. Good luck.