Hello All. Could I please have some advice on the replacement of a leaky oil pan gasket? I'm on my second attempt at fitting a new gasket but to no avail. The LR D1 manual advises an 18nm torque setting. I'm finding that with the RTV sealant this torque setting is spreading the gasket allowing for leakage around the bolts. I'm also wondering whether the RTV is best applied as a bead along the middle joint section as opposed to the RTV seal being spread over the whole gasket.
I'm tightening the bolts in sequence with the manual recommendation, starting in the middle bolt and alternately working out. My procedure is to put all the bolts in loose and let the pan hang, then starting in the midsection, then finger tighten to fit the pan to the block, then torque to 12 nm, then torque up to 18nm. All this is done within 30 minutes while the RTV is still uncured.
Many thanks. regards Tony G. NZ

 

Here's what I did. I asked a professional mechanic for advice (he's my son). He told me the cork gasket is old technology. So I ditched the gasket and used a good quality sealer with carbon ingredients. I personally really like Toyota's FIPG (Formed In Place Gasket) or The Right Stuff. One bead in the middle and around the bolt holes. I also made sure the pan was super clean and straight. It can bend with the gasket.

Still no leaks after several years. Hope this helps.

 

Many thanks, JonZo. On the third attempt, I applied the Permatex Aviation gasket seal. Then torqued the sump up to 12 newton/meter, with the seal on the threads acting as a lock-tight. This is an excellent sealant as it acts as an adhesive. Left the repair overnight to cure. Thanks again.

 

nzajg, you're welcome.

I'll try not to jinx you here, but I'll tell you my experience. I tried High Tack, from a can with a brush on a cork composite gasket. It's a red sticky contact dressing, probably similar to the Aviation type. Needs a bit of finesse to use properly, apply evenly and dry. Torque on the gasket was a bit tricky for me, needs a real soft touch. I ended up over tightening a bit I guess, better safe than sorry, right. Then after some weeks the gasket split at the corners. The High Tack held it together for a while.

I even bought another gasket, but it will stay on the shelf, since no leaks with the FIPG. By the way, here's a tip (for other readers of course), buy a pack of clean bolts and washers rather than spend the time cleaning the old ones. And watch for the longer one that holds the bracket for the oil cooler lines (automatic transmission).

Let us know how your method holds up over time. I'm sure there's more than one right answer.