hey there , i`m new to this forum but i wanted to ask , is it safer to put 85w/140 ?.

my rave tells me to put GL4 or GL5 ,, which is better on the gears and which would give me good millage ?

i searched for 75w/90 everywhere in my country and i can't find it , it's much easier to find 85w/140 but is it really the best choice for D1 gears ???

 

I use and recommend 85w-140, it will give better protection to the gears, especially if you live where it gets hot.
Use GL-4 if you can get it, or make sure that the GL-5 is also GL-4 safe.
80w-90 will get you better MPG, but not by much.
I use cheap gear lube and change it every spring.
You will need 7 US quarts to do both differentials and the transfer case.

 

alright so 85/140 will protect my gears if i choose to for example pull something or go offroad and locking diffs and all , and i probably have to change it every 2 years right? if that's the case i`ll go with 85/140 , i'd rather have better gear protection than MPG xD ahahahahhahahah i don't wanna have to fix a diff

 

well thanks for the help man , i do appreciate it and will take your advice.

 

Yes change it every 2 years, I change mine every year, its cheap insurance, but every 2 years is fine.

 

Knocked this out over the weekend w/RTV seal.

Only thing I would add is you need to remove the track bar off the frame first (obvious) but it's not listed in the write up. I took all 4 10mm bolts off one side, took 3 off the other and slid the bar out of the way, etc.

Also, to avoid using a 10mm hand wrench to get the bolts hiding under the exhaust (total pain in the ***) on the xfer case cover, I used a "thru ratchet". It worked great.

You can get a thru ratchet set (3/8 driver + sockets) at Lowes for 30 bucks or so. It was the saving grace of this for me, because 1 10mm would not come off with a hand wrench and I risked stripping the bolt - which would of caused a nightmare.
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I resealed my bottom plate and changed the oil on my transfer box this weekend. Gotta say it was harder than I anticipated, but not because I didn't do my homework.

Some of the issues:

• Removing the cross bar is great as long as you don't plan on breaking off the head of one of its bolts... and if you can tell me how to get to the nut on the other side, let me know. I ended up leaving it on and worked around it... doable, but a hassle.

• Whoever worked on it last used Loctite on all the bolts and torqued those puppies too tight. Rave calls for sealant, not thread locker.

• LR engineers couldn't have put the fill hole and handbrake cable sleeve in a worse place... finally had to buy a 1/2" u-joint extension so I wouldn't destroy the filler plug or my knuckles.

After fixing my leak and changing the oil, no more whirring sound on acceleration. I also greased my u-joints, so that may have helped with the noise as well.

 

If it's just one bolt, remove the remaining 3. Remove all 4 from the other side and just slide the bar out of the way.


I dunno how you did it with that bar in the way. That must of been hell.
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[quote=ralba1976;187010]? I am not a very hands on guy and don't have very many tools to do this job. Just wondering if anyone would know what the cost of this fix would run me?[/quote]


I suggest you get very hands on real soon if you are planning on keeping one of these going for very long unless you have a lot of disposable income. What you would spend on a shop of any type doing it for you would buy a good starter set of tools.

Get you a GOOD socket set or at least a good set of wrenches like the gear wrench sets when they are on sale. Unforunately some are metric others are SAE. Stanley has a decent set that has both available at most hardware stores.

I also want to say thanks for the pics, especially the one with the cover off.

 

What cross bar are you referring to, I don't remember one.