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D1 Transfer Case Fluid Change with Pictures

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  #51  
Old 08-11-2011 | 02:19 AM
amccullough's Avatar
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2011
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Ugh! What a pain that was to get the inspection plate off. Either the previous owner or the factory put Loc-Tite on my bolts! My air tools got them off ok but the top 3 have limited space. My twelve point wrenches were just stripping the bolt. Had to use a 6 point socket and track down a low profile 1/4" drive ratchet from a buddy to get them off. Thanks for the instructions!
 
  #52  
Old 09-11-2011 | 12:48 PM
jopatton's Avatar
8th Gear
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 8
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From: HI
Default Thanks Grussell

Great write up, after sweating for a 700 mile drive I was able to get under the Disco and re-seal my inspection cover and take advice of others to go with heaver weight oil.

I will say that the cross member/protection brace did not want to come off for me, so if this is similar to others out there the fix can still be completed with success. The game is operation and with my 04' it worked out well not getting RTV anywhere extra.

Thanks again for the great post.
 
  #53  
Old 10-18-2012 | 02:42 PM
Lupin 3rd's Avatar
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 40
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From: Capital Swamplands
Default Thanks for the howto!

Changed my oil yesterday and this howto was really useful!

The hand pump with a tube attached to the end made it so much easier to get the oil in the case. I had tried attaching the hose directly to the nipple on the bottles but it was $#!t: there was more oil on myself than in the transfer case!

The only thing that I would like to ad is that after loosening the fill plug with the breaker bar, I used a regular socket wrench with a 2" long 1/2 to 3/4 adapter. This made it easier for me since I didn't need to deal with the hand brake every time I had to move the breaker bar in and out of the plug. Similar to this one, but longer and reversible, IE: 1/2 to 3/4 and viceversa.
 
  #54  
Old 11-11-2012 | 12:54 PM
Climbs's Avatar
7th Gear
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 7
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From: San Jose
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Great post. I am half done with this. I am about to strip one of the cover bolts. Rookie question. When things start to slip a bit (mar) is it better to use a 6 point, 12 point or other socket? Also anyone know the size of the cover bolts? I would like to replace some. Also any loctite (removable type of course) on the bolts?

EDIT. In case anyone cares the bolt size is M8 1.25 x 25mm flange head. Kinda hard to find. However this is just for the cover so I am not sure it needs to be a flange head and it could probably be a bit shorter too. 20mm?
 

Last edited by Climbs; 11-12-2012 at 10:47 PM.
  #55  
Old 02-28-2013 | 03:01 PM
Bullitt's Avatar
5th Gear
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 5
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From: Channahon, IL
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hello, new member here, I have a question about the gear oil to use for the transfer case.
I've read a few sugsetions here about using 75/140, others say 85/140, and early in the thread I read mention of synthetic, havn't seen mention of it after that one post, also there was mention of GL4-GL5 not sure what that means, I just want to make sure I get the correct stuff.

I went to autozone and seen alot of diffrent gear oil brands and weight some said synthetic some did not, should I get synthetic? valvoline had a 75/140 synthetic gear oil is that ok to use.

I should mention I have a 2000 DII with 185,000 miles on it, does it matter what I use with this many miles on it?
I just got it a few days ago and the person I bought it from said the transfercase and trans fluids are due to be changed, he followed these forums and took good care of it, its clean and runs great for a 2000 with 185k on it.
 
  #56  
Old 02-28-2013 | 05:33 PM
binvanna's Avatar
Winching
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 676
Likes: 43
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Any API rated gear oil you mentioned will work. The 140's will have better viscosity at high temperatures but if you're in a mild climate and don't tow a heavy trailer up steep grades then I don't see it making a big difference. The synthetics could last longer, but nothing will make more of a difference than just changing it at the appropriate interval or whenever it gets contaminated with water etc.

If you want a specific recommendation, Lubro Moly 75W-90 or Mobil 1 75W-140
 
  #57  
Old 03-01-2013 | 01:18 AM
Savannah Buzz's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
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From: Savannah Georgia
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many avoid the synthetic and high price because they frolic in water (wading) and change out oil after the weekend adventure.
 
  #58  
Old 04-25-2013 | 08:43 PM
caymandrew's Avatar
Winching
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 501
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From: Destin FL
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Just curious if anyone thinks I should take a deeper look at this. I just changed the tcase fluid and seal and here's how my picture compares to the OP:

The OP's gears:

Name:  ScreenShot2013-04-25at83825PM_zpsb21a2557.png
Views: 1006
Size:  769.9 KB

And my gears:

Name:  AVA_4309_zps9e80ff0c.jpg
Views: 909
Size:  70.9 KB
 
  #59  
Old 04-27-2013 | 05:16 PM
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4wd Low
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 13
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This forum has truly created a monster out of me with regards to my 2000 Land Rover Discovery II. I have always paid to have work done and with 170K miles I dont feel like putting much money into it (no car note and only $50 for insurance per month). I love the truck but have had all of the same issues that everyone else has had (leaking sunroof, air bladders replaced with springs, plastic regulator piece broken in window track...) Over the past two weeks I have gone from not knowing how to do anything to changing the differential fluids front and back and transfer case (great tips and tricks for someone new like myself) and love the pictures- most of the time I have no idea what I'm looking at! Last week I changed a throttle body heater plate, cleaned the throttle body and ordered new hoses. Next week it's on to the transmission filter and fluids...

Thanks for all of your help and inspiration!!! Keep it up!
 
  #60  
Old 09-29-2013 | 08:05 AM
aftermath431's Avatar
Mudding
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 136
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
Default Thanks

Thanks for the how to. Mine is leaking and i'm going to fix it today. did you use a torque wrench?
 


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