D1 Transfer Case Fluid Change with Pictures
#71
09-04-2014, 08:09 PM
Well got a new pump and got about 1/2 a quart in her before it came apart. I was able to put it back together and continue on. I'm not sure if I had horrible luck with these or what but that happened a couple more times before I was done. I must have bad luck with these because the both came apart at the same spot.
There's still something leaking farther up but at least there isn't half a dozen drops under the transfer case every time I stop somewhere for awhile.
There's still something leaking farther up but at least there isn't half a dozen drops under the transfer case every time I stop somewhere for awhile.
I finally attempted this the other day with mixed results. I was able to get the fill and drain plugs out fine once I broke them loose but the 10mm bolts on the inspection plate felt like the were welded on. I think what was on the threads was permatex gasket not threadlocker but it felt like it worked the same. The other issue is there was probably only 1/2 a quart of gear oil in the case. Hopefully this will resolve a few of the multitude of drips below the vehicle. I only had permatex black oil max sealant but I'm guessing that will be fine.
On a side note I still haven't filled her up yet since the pump I got(same as OP's photo) fell apart about two pumps into trying to fill the transfer case. Hopefully I'll be able to fill her up and check at least one thing off on the 'does not leak' list because right now it's empty.
On a side note I still haven't filled her up yet since the pump I got(same as OP's photo) fell apart about two pumps into trying to fill the transfer case. Hopefully I'll be able to fill her up and check at least one thing off on the 'does not leak' list because right now it's empty.
#72
10-02-2014, 09:25 PM
#73
10-12-2015, 01:15 PM
Rock Crawling
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Hardly anybody mentions something that should be mentioned, and mentioned a lot:
What auto. engineer would design a bottom cover on a transfer case that had bolts holding on the bottom cover, with threads for SOME OF those bolts going up into the transfer case, ending directly INTO the interior of the case, so the gear lube sits on the ends of those bolts, seeps down along the bolt threads, onto the ground? Only Rover, it seems, would do such a thing. This was done, apparently, to save a little aluminum, and make the transfer case walls thinner. Such a thing wasn't done on the original REAL Land Rover, the series models, but was done on the Discovery series---just a new discovery for owners, making it all the harder to seal the transfer case well! Such design tactics make it necessary to use thread sealer or thread locker, both of these will work, in sealing the bottom cover well, but the locker makes it much harder to remove the bolts later. Back in the days of real auto engineering design, bolt holes were never run up into the interior of a case, where lubrication sits, just waiting to leak out along thread holes, so thread sealant hadn't even been developed yet. Back in those days, far fewer problems were encountered with leaking too. All this leads one to wonder just what the modern day auto engineer was thinking, when they developed some things on our modern autos.
What auto. engineer would design a bottom cover on a transfer case that had bolts holding on the bottom cover, with threads for SOME OF those bolts going up into the transfer case, ending directly INTO the interior of the case, so the gear lube sits on the ends of those bolts, seeps down along the bolt threads, onto the ground? Only Rover, it seems, would do such a thing. This was done, apparently, to save a little aluminum, and make the transfer case walls thinner. Such a thing wasn't done on the original REAL Land Rover, the series models, but was done on the Discovery series---just a new discovery for owners, making it all the harder to seal the transfer case well! Such design tactics make it necessary to use thread sealer or thread locker, both of these will work, in sealing the bottom cover well, but the locker makes it much harder to remove the bolts later. Back in the days of real auto engineering design, bolt holes were never run up into the interior of a case, where lubrication sits, just waiting to leak out along thread holes, so thread sealant hadn't even been developed yet. Back in those days, far fewer problems were encountered with leaking too. All this leads one to wonder just what the modern day auto engineer was thinking, when they developed some things on our modern autos.
#74
03-06-2016, 11:09 PM
ive been working on my disco 1 for a few months. Oil changed trany fluid changed. Replace AIC, 2 inch lift new tire off road front bumper,brake job, 50 inch LED bar, you know the basics!
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Victor Morales Toro (10-16-2020)
#75
03-21-2016, 01:16 PM
#76
03-21-2016, 04:34 PM
The D1 has the LT230 t-case, same as DII, regardless of the transmission. There's no need to remove the bottom cover. The OP in this thread had leaks. If I were doing it, yes, I would use The Right Stuff gasket maker from Permatex, so I could refill it immediately. Standard silicone RTV would take ~24 hours.
If you're just changing fluid, there's a drain plug next to the bottom cover.
A good pump makes the job easier, but I've just used the round quart bottles with a vinyl tube on the nipple. Lubro Moly bottles even come with a built-in tube. I pitch the bottle up into the cavity in front of the parking brake drum and bend the tube into the filler hole. Starting with warm fluid helps it go a little quicker. After about a minute, I cut or stab the bottom of the bottle (which is at the top when its inverted) to let air in. That also speeds it up.
If you're just changing fluid, there's a drain plug next to the bottom cover.
A good pump makes the job easier, but I've just used the round quart bottles with a vinyl tube on the nipple. Lubro Moly bottles even come with a built-in tube. I pitch the bottle up into the cavity in front of the parking brake drum and bend the tube into the filler hole. Starting with warm fluid helps it go a little quicker. After about a minute, I cut or stab the bottom of the bottle (which is at the top when its inverted) to let air in. That also speeds it up.
#77
03-21-2016, 04:45 PM
Right on, thanks Binvinna.
I'm seeing quite a bit of fluid around the access plate so I may just bite the bullet and get that done while I'm in there.
The Disco is new to me so I'm in the process of going through things methodically to get her up to snuff and the access plate gasket seems like a good thing to check off the list (I have a Series 2A Land Rover and the cover always leaks on those too).
Cheers
Dave
I'm seeing quite a bit of fluid around the access plate so I may just bite the bullet and get that done while I'm in there.
The Disco is new to me so I'm in the process of going through things methodically to get her up to snuff and the access plate gasket seems like a good thing to check off the list (I have a Series 2A Land Rover and the cover always leaks on those too).
Cheers
Dave
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