Sounds like a productive day!! I was planning on replacing the lock actuator in the back door, installing my CB radio, and a new cruise control ECU today as it was above freezing, but it never stopped raining. Perhaps tomorrow in the snow...

 

Sure if you like 1 step forward and 3 steps backward, hoping tommorow fares better, replacement fuel sensor arrived and want to remove and clean neg batt cable and clean all attach points to see if it helps any

 

Hi Tom,

If the fan clutch was "wobbling", could the bearings on your water pump be going out? I'm not sure if replacing it with the old one fixed the wobble, but thought I would mention it.

Abran

 

Wobble fixed it was shot

 

Okay Tom, here's the results. Key on, engine off 11.4 with no pressure on the gas pedal; 80.7 foot to the floor. Seemed to increase consistently with increasing pressure. Engine running 12.2 at start up/idle, and 53.6 at 3000 RPM in park. Again, seemed to increase consistently with increasing pressure. Driving @ 55ish, 28.6, and I had to climb a really steep mile-long hill from a stop, and, it was at 63.2 with steady pressure on the pedal about 3/4 of the way to the floor. I tried to notice a flat spot when I stepped on the gas from a stop, but the numbers increased instantly. Not thinking the TPS is sticking anywhere, but definitely didn't see the 93 you were referring to, and thought there would be a lower number without the engine on...

 

Yep, but headway is headway no matter how you measure it. As my wife says, working on the Disco keeps me out of trouble I've been meaning to pull the negative cable from the frame & cleaning it to see if I get more volts than the consistent 12.5 - 13.0 out of the alternator I get or the flickering headlights/dash lights and sporadic gauges with the lights/turn signals on, but that just never seems to happen. Please let me know if you see a change, and I'll push that project up on my list.

 

On TPS, odd that your base reading engine off vs engine on is different imo

Have you ever cleaned the throttle body? IACV?

TPS could be bad, maybe your fuel sender is crapping out like mine was lol
Unplug TPS hang check voltage key on, red wire should be like 5 or 7 volts I think, red/black is ground

I would buy a tube of dielectric grease and smear in all plugs it does help keep away corrosion and promote conductivity I even use it on batt terminals

Got the new used sender installed looked brand new not all rusty an yellowed like mine was

Pulled ground cleaned reinstalled instant 14.1 volt till you start turning things on

My volts were real low a while back, I added a braided ground from batt to a/c bracket and batt to rad support that took me from Max of 12.5 up to 13+ volts so seams to me these have very poor grounding like all British vehicles used to

Btw still idles where it wants on each startup, guessing I will need ecm reset

 

Interesting update. If the Disco idles at 11.8 and I step on the gas pretty hard, there's a lag, if it reads 12.2, there's no lag. Maybe it is the TPS. I thought the reading should be the same whether the truck was on or off as it should be a preset. Nope, never cleaned the throttle body or the IACV, but will do that. Just think, if we keep this up, we'll have new vehicles again!!

 

Clean everything anyway but i lean toward bad spot on TPS it is in essence a variable resistor the mech part goes bad eventualy

 

I ordered one this evening. I also wanted to order a new IACV, but couldn't find one. We'll see if that takes care of the situation. Thanks for your help!