death wobble
#41
05-22-2015, 08:35 PM
A couple of things.
Get a few RTC3511 hub seals and keep them on hand, 8 should be enough for a 2-3 years dpending on how many miles you put on. Those have to be bought from a Rover parts house. (check Land Rover Parts and Accessories from RovahFarm, he has good prices and ships USPS priority flat rate so you get it cheap and quick)
With the hub seals on hand you can get the hub bearings locally for $12-$15 each.
Timken SET37, SKF BR37, *** KIT38 or National A-37
Hub bearings aren't like brakes, you don't have to do both sides at the same time. They only need to be replaced if they are showing wear. Usually a clean, inspect, repack is good provided they are adjusted properly.
I only skimmed the posts but it sounds like you've checked everything but the swivel pins. If so, get the kit and rebuild both sides.
Finally, I'd find a new mechanic. If he works on Rovers he should have hub seals in stock so parts would be at most $50 (allowing for a 50% markup) Sounds like he charges $200 or so an hour. That's way too much to be getting it wrong.
Get a few RTC3511 hub seals and keep them on hand, 8 should be enough for a 2-3 years dpending on how many miles you put on. Those have to be bought from a Rover parts house. (check Land Rover Parts and Accessories from RovahFarm, he has good prices and ships USPS priority flat rate so you get it cheap and quick)
With the hub seals on hand you can get the hub bearings locally for $12-$15 each.
Timken SET37, SKF BR37, *** KIT38 or National A-37
Hub bearings aren't like brakes, you don't have to do both sides at the same time. They only need to be replaced if they are showing wear. Usually a clean, inspect, repack is good provided they are adjusted properly.
I only skimmed the posts but it sounds like you've checked everything but the swivel pins. If so, get the kit and rebuild both sides.
Finally, I'd find a new mechanic. If he works on Rovers he should have hub seals in stock so parts would be at most $50 (allowing for a 50% markup) Sounds like he charges $200 or so an hour. That's way too much to be getting it wrong.
Also, is there only one bearing per wheel?
Oh and I noticed this is the Disco1 forum. Are they the same on the Disco2's?
#44
05-23-2015, 02:13 AM
When I started experiencing the Death wobble, I found out both of the '*****' were badly corroded which in turn made the seals leak, and contributed to the pin bearings wearing out, and the CV joint on the drivers side making noise (it was coated with rust) I found it cheaper to get a front axle assembly from a salvage yard and remove the parts I needed.
You want to find a 'later' version of the D1 that has the grey (teflon coated) ball as they are better protected from corrosion than the 'early" chrome plated ones. It is quite easy to remove the whole axle end from the swivel mount flange (about 6 bolts) and slide it out than to take the whole end apart and change the individual components.
I could move my wheel on the drivers side at the 6 and 12 position with the truck sitting on the ground. I was told the top bearing commonly goes out because of lack of oil when the seal goes bad. Same with the CV joint. After replacing both ends on the axle, my death wobble is completely gone. I did the work sitting in my neighbor's drive way as I don't have any off street parking. Took most of the day to do the change. Since I used what was already on the donor axle for bearings and such, I didn't have to mess with the shims and preloads. Worth a try anyhow!
You want to find a 'later' version of the D1 that has the grey (teflon coated) ball as they are better protected from corrosion than the 'early" chrome plated ones. It is quite easy to remove the whole axle end from the swivel mount flange (about 6 bolts) and slide it out than to take the whole end apart and change the individual components.
I could move my wheel on the drivers side at the 6 and 12 position with the truck sitting on the ground. I was told the top bearing commonly goes out because of lack of oil when the seal goes bad. Same with the CV joint. After replacing both ends on the axle, my death wobble is completely gone. I did the work sitting in my neighbor's drive way as I don't have any off street parking. Took most of the day to do the change. Since I used what was already on the donor axle for bearings and such, I didn't have to mess with the shims and preloads. Worth a try anyhow!
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