Diff Light not going off?
#11
08-20-2010, 03:27 PM
Baja
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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So the light was def on, but the diff wasnt locked. I drove it to work yesterday because i was pretty sure it was safe. By the time i got off the highway the light had gone off. This leads me to believe that that spring you guys are describing as well as the rest of the linkage is probably pretty gummed up and corroded. So this may warrant a taking apart and lubing up.
As far as the diff lock shifter is concerned, i have never needed it as i havent done any off roading but i just figure that if i have a truck that does something that cool, i want it to work. I did NOT realize that the car could be locked from high or low, i thought it had to go through the neutral gate in order to to the left and then you select high or low. Which explains a lot of my issue trying to get the diff to walk over to the left side. I'll do some more playing with it over the weekend. But i think it's loose enough where i can get it in there with out having to tear everything apart.
Cross your fingers, hopefully i dont get it stuck in lock.
Thanks
As far as the diff lock shifter is concerned, i have never needed it as i havent done any off roading but i just figure that if i have a truck that does something that cool, i want it to work. I did NOT realize that the car could be locked from high or low, i thought it had to go through the neutral gate in order to to the left and then you select high or low. Which explains a lot of my issue trying to get the diff to walk over to the left side. I'll do some more playing with it over the weekend. But i think it's loose enough where i can get it in there with out having to tear everything apart.
Cross your fingers, hopefully i dont get it stuck in lock.
Thanks
That's why I gave the explanation I did, stressing that it is two totally independent functions. Also knowing not to engage CDL on dry pavement and not to turn tightly with CDL engaged on any pavement. Did not want you to damage your Disco out of lack of knowledge concerning your vehicle.
Sorry if I sounded rude or ignorant, just wanted to be direct. You may get away with getting underneath and spraying that whole area good with PB Blaster, or another such spray. The lower pivot point I showed in my pics is the piece that turns and actually engages or disengages the CDL when it rotates. I put a socket on the center nut and turned it with an extension and speed handle the first time, it was stuck pretty good. You may be able to get to it without pulling the center console out. It is a bitch to take all that apart if you don't have to.
Good Luck.
#12
07-02-2013, 08:52 PM
Mudding
Is this the case on a 2001 DiscoII as well? Thanks!
Do you understand that LOCK versus UNLOCK is completely independent of HIGH versus LOW
While there is only one lever, it performs two completely independent functions.
Moving from fully right to fully left locks the center differential, whether you are in HIGH or LOW setting on the transfer case. Do not attempt to engage if any wheel is spinning or slipping (loss of traction condition).
You should be able to shift side-to-side in either high or low. sitting still or moving at any reasonable speed even cruising on the highway if conditions are slick. Do not engage CDL on dry pavement. If you do, when you turn from side to side you will damage the driveline.
To shift from HIGH to LOW or even from LOW back to HIGH , you must be in neutral with the transmission. That is if the solenoid is functioning properly. This is fore and aft movement of the shift lever. Totally seperate independent function of the same short lever. Wheter CDL is engaged or not. You should be able to go high to low or low to high regardless of Center Differential being locked or unlocked.
If the CDL shifting function is not working properly, you really should go ahead and remove the center console to allow you access to the mechanical linkages that actually perform the shifting function when you attempt to move the shifter side to side. The small parts and pieces tend to corrode with age and non-use. When this happens you loose the ability to properly engage and disengage and can cause severe damage quickly as well as loose the fantastic traction you get with CDL engaged.
Removing the center console is not highly difficult, just a pain to deal with. There are good write-ups on-line that walk you thru step-by-step.
So I won't go into great detail here. After you remove the center console completely, you drill out the rivets that hold the rubber boot in place so you can re-use it. Don't cut it like another member said he did. You can pop rivet it back in place upon reassembly.
There is a triangular looking piece at the bottom of the linkages that rotates when you move the lever side-to-side. This is the part that actually engages and disengages the internal piece that actually locks the center differential. There is also a plunger type switch that has to function to allow the CDL light on the dash to illuminate. I had to replace mine as well as replaced ALL of the little clevis pins, clips, locking washers involved. Clean everything real good. Fill the top box with the little gears in it with synthetic LUCAS RED Tractor gear lube to keep it from getting rusted up. Water tends to get in there if you ford deep water when off-roading.
The following pictures show the lower portion of the linkage (the true pivot point), two views of the top of the shifter with the console and the rubber boot removed, one of these looking down from the top. The last picture shows the secret trap door that exist under the carpets. That is when you use a drill and tin snips like I do to gain access. I have since installed a patch now that the CDL shifts properly.
It's really up to you, tear out the console and fix the damn linkage or ignore it and tear out the drive line. My way is about two grand cheaper.
While there is only one lever, it performs two completely independent functions.
Moving from fully right to fully left locks the center differential, whether you are in HIGH or LOW setting on the transfer case. Do not attempt to engage if any wheel is spinning or slipping (loss of traction condition).
You should be able to shift side-to-side in either high or low. sitting still or moving at any reasonable speed even cruising on the highway if conditions are slick. Do not engage CDL on dry pavement. If you do, when you turn from side to side you will damage the driveline.
To shift from HIGH to LOW or even from LOW back to HIGH , you must be in neutral with the transmission. That is if the solenoid is functioning properly. This is fore and aft movement of the shift lever. Totally seperate independent function of the same short lever. Wheter CDL is engaged or not. You should be able to go high to low or low to high regardless of Center Differential being locked or unlocked.
If the CDL shifting function is not working properly, you really should go ahead and remove the center console to allow you access to the mechanical linkages that actually perform the shifting function when you attempt to move the shifter side to side. The small parts and pieces tend to corrode with age and non-use. When this happens you loose the ability to properly engage and disengage and can cause severe damage quickly as well as loose the fantastic traction you get with CDL engaged.
Removing the center console is not highly difficult, just a pain to deal with. There are good write-ups on-line that walk you thru step-by-step.
So I won't go into great detail here. After you remove the center console completely, you drill out the rivets that hold the rubber boot in place so you can re-use it. Don't cut it like another member said he did. You can pop rivet it back in place upon reassembly.
There is a triangular looking piece at the bottom of the linkages that rotates when you move the lever side-to-side. This is the part that actually engages and disengages the internal piece that actually locks the center differential. There is also a plunger type switch that has to function to allow the CDL light on the dash to illuminate. I had to replace mine as well as replaced ALL of the little clevis pins, clips, locking washers involved. Clean everything real good. Fill the top box with the little gears in it with synthetic LUCAS RED Tractor gear lube to keep it from getting rusted up. Water tends to get in there if you ford deep water when off-roading.
The following pictures show the lower portion of the linkage (the true pivot point), two views of the top of the shifter with the console and the rubber boot removed, one of these looking down from the top. The last picture shows the secret trap door that exist under the carpets. That is when you use a drill and tin snips like I do to gain access. I have since installed a patch now that the CDL shifts properly.
It's really up to you, tear out the console and fix the damn linkage or ignore it and tear out the drive line. My way is about two grand cheaper.
#13
09-13-2020, 04:15 PM
Replaced the switch and now the light stays on??
I had had a problem with my diff lock switch being wonky and causing the lights to flicker on and off and the beeping to start and stop so I replaced the switch. Now that the switch is replaced the light stays on all the time?
I have confirmed that it’s not locked by manually activating the lock and unlock directly on top of the transfer case and by checking that with one wheel jacked up it does spin.
I have confirmed that it’s not locked by manually activating the lock and unlock directly on top of the transfer case and by checking that with one wheel jacked up it does spin.
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