Hardly looks like there's been any cutting at all above. Looks like just a camel cut. I was under the impression it was required for 33+ with spacers/offset and no sway bars.

Why don't D2 flares fall off the D2s or do they?

 

From the factory they have a really good adhesive and are designed to sit flat on the fender.. Once you hack a d1 fender enough to get them on it's tricky to find a flat spot to get them to sit on.

I have still seen d2 fender flares fall off while off roading. Another issue guys have is the tires sticking out just too far for the d2 flares and the tire coming up and hitting the flare causing them to come off.

Here's a pic of how much I cut pre fender flares - this was rough cause I knew I was going to cut more and cover it up..





And this is how much you have to cut for the fender flares - I just didnt have time to stick them on before this

 

i think if youre on factory wheels the 235s wont stick out any further than factory... at least mine dont i guess.
all that was needed was a camel cut

 

Yea I adde the spacers for a little wider stance and to increase turning radius. I ran them on the front only for a long time. I cant turn now either but oh wweelllll

 

heres a picture just for ****s hah

plenty of room!

 

what kind of rack is that valvecovergasket?

 

The d2 flares are a pain because the contours of the d2 panels don't match the contours of the d1 panel, do from stock the flare is designed to sit flat on two pieces of the body, but because the way the d1 is contoured, you can only really get the flare to contact one part, thus making it twice as likely to pop off. if you get em on right, with the right adhesive, they'll stay pretty well, they're proba ly the hardest one to put on though because they're not designed for it. I'm gonna put mine back on right, after anthracite.

 

to cover up the epoxy and crap on your fenders?

 

Thanks to all those that posted, and helped me out with the info and pics.