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Discovery upgrade to Defender 90 (D90) brakes - caliper and rotors?

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Old Jun 18, 2019 | 12:19 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by LeakyDisco
Agree, my conversion is OK. Better but not what I expected.

When the ABS was removed, did they remove/bypass the pump and configure the ECU such that it won't throw codes?

Any caveats with removing the ABS entirely (e.g. insurance issues, vehicle inspections, etc.)?
You won't throw codes by removing the ABS. The ABS light on the dash will come on, but just pull the bulb and then that's taken care of.
Insurance could be an issue if you get in a wreck and some pencil pusher starts poking around. If you're worried about that just install a shorted out fuse in the ABS pump holder. You can always plead ignorance then.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2019 | 09:21 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by fishEH
You won't throw codes by removing the ABS. The ABS light on the dash will come on, but just pull the bulb and then that's taken care of.
Insurance could be an issue if you get in a wreck and some pencil pusher starts poking around. If you're worried about that just install a shorted out fuse in the ABS pump holder. You can always plead ignorance then.
Ha! But even a blown fuse won't mask a missing ABS pump.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2019 | 04:11 PM
  #53  
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Almost done! Thanks for all the help and patience



 
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Old Jul 2, 2019 | 08:56 PM
  #54  
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How much was the conversion and where did you source the parts?
 
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Old Jul 2, 2019 | 11:29 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Icannap1
How much was the conversion and where did you source the parts?
Trevor at RovahFarm and it was around $400 - $600 (see post #5 in this thread for an idea of cost breakdown).
 
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Old Jul 9, 2019 | 06:02 PM
  #56  
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Could someone tell me what the extra nuts are for with the Britpart stainless steel braided brake line kit?

Did I forget to include them during install?

 
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Old Jul 9, 2019 | 07:18 PM
  #57  
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Also, on the passenger front I am now on my third hard brake line (I gave up and purchased bubble flared lines for the rover) and the thing keeps leaking at the line but union with the Britpart stainless steel line.

Did I miss something or could someone give me some advice on how to fix this pita.

With the first one, I was cautious not to over tighten, and then I seemed to tighten it to a point where it went loose and wasn't even threaded at all.

With the second I made sure to get the angle right, threaded gently by hand until tight, then with the line wrench until snug. Again it started leaking... I then tried to snug it up, and the same thing happened. The line but became loose and wasn't threaded...

Tried again for a third time, and the same results. I am so close and yet so frustrated... I thank everyone for their time and help... I am almost there... driver side I got on the first attempt... *squints and shakes fist at land rover*


 
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Old Jul 9, 2019 | 11:13 PM
  #58  
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Is that 3/16" bubble flare metric line? If it's not metric(10 x something) it may not seal up properly.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2019 | 01:09 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by fishEH
Is that 3/16" bubble flare metric line? If it's not metric(10 x something) it may not seal up properly.
Yes, it is 3/16" bubble flared metric line. I will try another piece in a day or two.

I just hope the Britpart ss flex line isn't defective (highly unlikely, but it can happen).
 
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Old Jul 17, 2019 | 03:40 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by archaeology_student
Yes, it is 3/16" bubble flared metric line. I will try another piece in a day or two.

I just hope the Britpart ss flex line isn't defective (highly unlikely, but it can happen).
Lesson learned... The parts people at Lordco were selling me bubble lines with US threaded line nuts, not metric! I asked them on my three trips in, and finally realized that they sold me the wrong lines which had the incorrect nuts on them.

Lesson learned, double and triple check everything at parts stores!
 

Last edited by archaeology_student; Jul 17, 2019 at 03:56 PM.
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