Hey guys,

Please this is not a thread about what steering shock is better D1 or D2. We ALL KNOW which one is but this thread is started for the guy like me that ordered a D1 steering stabilizer and didnt know any better prior to ordering or the guy that just wants to use his D1 shock and does not want to spend ridicolous amounts of money D2 shock plus relocation but wants off road protection for his stabilizer.

i've been really hesitant on paying 75+ bucks for a steering relocation when LR gives us 70% of the parts already.

For us D1 guys that wheel have a big problem with the factory location of the steering shock. Unless you have converted to D2 style relocation

Well..during an off road trip I bent the heck out of mine tie rods along with my steering shock....so I had to order new tie rod ends and steering shock for a D1,

Now this is all you need for the relocation:

Welder (exhaust shop charged me minimal dollars)

L Steel Bracket, I would not go anything less than 1/4 inch thick (mine came with the new steering rods but Lowe's has them for $5 bucks)

O'Reily $4.99 shock end link bushing kit and ask for (8) bushing flat washers (i believe he called it federal washers at the counter, orange box)

Reuse old nuts but get lock washers (put the lock washer in between the two nuts)

Resure differential shock mount

Total investment about $25 bucks

ImageShack Album - 3 images

 

My limited experience with welding tie rods and drag links in that manner are not a good idea. they seem to bend more readily at that point....especially when weakened by inferior welds with pin holing and inclusions. good idea, though. i would have clamped it to the tie rod instead.

advntrjnky

 

that would be true if you had hollow tie rods...my tie rods are solid steel 30mm

 

UPDATE..three off road trips and the relocation holds up great