Drag Link R & R
#1
08-10-2012, 01:37 PM
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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Drag Link R & R
Guys,
I have a bent drag link I need to replace. I have the replacement and have found the section in the RAVE copied below, but I have a few questions if anyone who has done it could give advice, I would appreciate a few pointers.
20. Tighten clamp bolts to 14 Nm.
Anyone got any advice of what to use for this or where to get am equiv. tool?
I am sure there are several of you who are familar with this procedure. I don't want to stumble in and have a problem. Thanks guys.
I have a bent drag link I need to replace. I have the replacement and have found the section in the RAVE copied below, but I have a few questions if anyone who has done it could give advice, I would appreciate a few pointers.
DRAG LINK AND DRAG LINK ENDS
Service repair no - 57.55.17
Remove drag link
1.
Service repair no - 57.55.17
Remove drag link
1.
Check front wheel alignment. See Adjustment,
Front Wheel Alignment
2. Ensure wheels are positioned straight ahead
during following procedure.
Front Wheel Alignment
2. Ensure wheels are positioned straight ahead
during following procedure.
3.
Place vehicle on a hoist, or support front axle on
axle stands.
axle stands.
4.
Remove right front road wheel.
5.
Disconnect drag link ball joint at swivel housing
arm, using extractor LRT-57-018.
arm, using extractor LRT-57-018.
6.
Disconnect drag link ball joint at drop arm using
LRT-57-018.
LRT-57-018.
7.
Remove drag link.
Remove drag link ends
8.
8.
Loosen clamp bolts.
9.
Unscrew ball joints.
10.
Clean internal threads in drag link.
Refit drag link ends
11.
11.
Fit replacement ends. Loosely fit clamp bolts.
12.
Set ball joints to drag link distance to 28.5mm as
shown.
shown.
13.
Adjust ball pin centres to nominal length of
924.0mm. this length is adjusted during refit.
924.0mm. this length is adjusted during refit.
14.
Centralise steering box. See Adjustment,
Centralise Steering Box
15. Align steering wheel, if necessary. See
Steering Wheel
Refit drag link
CAUTION: Fit new drag link if existing drag
link is damaged or bent. No attempt
should be made to repair it.
16. Fit drag link. Tighten ball-joint nuts to 40 Nm.
17. Check steering lock stops. See Adjustment,
Steering Lock Stops
18. Ensure full steering travel is obtained between
lock stops. Adjust drag link length to suit.
Centralise Steering Box
15. Align steering wheel, if necessary. See
Steering Wheel
Refit drag link
CAUTION: Fit new drag link if existing drag
link is damaged or bent. No attempt
should be made to repair it.
16. Fit drag link. Tighten ball-joint nuts to 40 Nm.
17. Check steering lock stops. See Adjustment,
Steering Lock Stops
18. Ensure full steering travel is obtained between
lock stops. Adjust drag link length to suit.
19.
Tap ball joints in direction shown, so both pins
are in same angular plane.
are in same angular plane.
20. Tighten clamp bolts to 14 Nm.
Anyone got any advice of what to use for this or where to get am equiv. tool?
I am sure there are several of you who are familar with this procedure. I don't want to stumble in and have a problem. Thanks guys.
#2
08-10-2012, 03:16 PM
What drag link did you go with? HD I hope.
Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to pop the old ones off.
Thread in your new TRE's to specified length. Put the TRE's in their spots and tighten. Get them good and tight and then tighten the kastle nut a bit more to slide the coffers pin through. Done.
Use antiseize on the TRE threads.
Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to pop the old ones off.
Thread in your new TRE's to specified length. Put the TRE's in their spots and tighten. Get them good and tight and then tighten the kastle nut a bit more to slide the coffers pin through. Done.
Use antiseize on the TRE threads.
#3
08-10-2012, 07:07 PM
Baja
I use one of these for removal
draper_13914_N140.jpg?t=1268743573
There are other options, including two hammers.
When you remove the tie rod ends you can could the number of turns to try to get them close, or better with new ends, measure form the center of the head to the other one.
If they are nylock nuts it's easier to install with plain nuts to tight, then back them off and install the nylocks.
The nylocks will tend to cause the taper to spin in the bracket.
draper_13914_N140.jpg?t=1268743573
There are other options, including two hammers.
When you remove the tie rod ends you can could the number of turns to try to get them close, or better with new ends, measure form the center of the head to the other one.
If they are nylock nuts it's easier to install with plain nuts to tight, then back them off and install the nylocks.
The nylocks will tend to cause the taper to spin in the bracket.
#4
08-10-2012, 07:21 PM
I use one of these for removal
There are other options, including two hammers.
When you remove the tie rod ends you can could the number of turns to try to get them close, or better with new ends, measure form the center of the head to the other one.
If they are nylock nuts it's easier to install with plain nuts to tight, then back them off and install the nylocks.
The nylocks will tend to cause the taper to spin in the bracket.
There are other options, including two hammers.
When you remove the tie rod ends you can could the number of turns to try to get them close, or better with new ends, measure form the center of the head to the other one.
If they are nylock nuts it's easier to install with plain nuts to tight, then back them off and install the nylocks.
The nylocks will tend to cause the taper to spin in the bracket.
#6
08-11-2012, 10:16 AM
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
I use one of these for removal
There are other options, including two hammers.
When you remove the tie rod ends you can could the number of turns to try to get them close, or better with new ends, measure form the center of the head to the other one.
If they are nylock nuts it's easier to install with plain nuts to tight, then back them off and install the nylocks.
The nylocks will tend to cause the taper to spin in the bracket.
There are other options, including two hammers.
When you remove the tie rod ends you can could the number of turns to try to get them close, or better with new ends, measure form the center of the head to the other one.
If they are nylock nuts it's easier to install with plain nuts to tight, then back them off and install the nylocks.
The nylocks will tend to cause the taper to spin in the bracket.
Thanks Tom for the tips. Do you happen to have a source for that tool or since I am putting in a replacement (from Will Tillery, so it is stock one with new tie rod ends) do I really need to go to the expense.
I may have one of those pullers around here, I'll have to dig it up.
#7
08-11-2012, 12:03 PM
Winching
#8
08-11-2012, 04:58 PM
Baja
Since the ball joints are being replaced you can just use a pickle fork since it doesn't matter if they get trashed.
Mines a Draper and sells for about £14 in the UK. Here in the states they are a good deal more. The only place in the States I know for a fact that sells them is Triple-C, for about $50.
AB might have them.
Mines a Draper and sells for about £14 in the UK. Here in the states they are a good deal more. The only place in the States I know for a fact that sells them is Triple-C, for about $50.
AB might have them.
#9
08-11-2012, 06:18 PM
Winching
i picked one up at my local hardware store for under $20
these guys have them too if youre willing to wait on shipping
Bottom-line pricing on Tool Aid 61900 at ToolTopia.com
these guys have them too if youre willing to wait on shipping
Bottom-line pricing on Tool Aid 61900 at ToolTopia.com
#10
08-11-2012, 07:29 PM
Baja
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