Drag link removal from arm
#11
#12
#13
need 2 BFHs
Put your new tool on the link in such a way that you have the space to put a 4 pound hammer on the one side and a space where you can pound the arm with at least a 2 pound hammer. Now put the tool under as much tension on the link as possible( I bent one of those tools) so be careful mine was made in china
Once you have the tension put the 4 pound hammer against the arm and pound it as hard as you can with the 2 pound hammer the shock makes it come loose. Sometimes you have to pound it 2 or 3 times to get it loose.
Remember to count the number of flats of the lock nut on the link arm when you loosen it. This is so that your new link is as close as possible to the old links position.
Oh yes watch out for fingers and eyes. Wear safety glasses. these also keep the sand grit out of your eyes
Once you have the tension put the 4 pound hammer against the arm and pound it as hard as you can with the 2 pound hammer the shock makes it come loose. Sometimes you have to pound it 2 or 3 times to get it loose.
Remember to count the number of flats of the lock nut on the link arm when you loosen it. This is so that your new link is as close as possible to the old links position.
Oh yes watch out for fingers and eyes. Wear safety glasses. these also keep the sand grit out of your eyes
Last edited by woza; 03-23-2013 at 06:10 AM. Reason: tablet spell check does what it likes to do and not what type in changes nut to but???
#17
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Upstate South Carolina
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Stock is both RH i believe. My Rover Tracks drag link is RH/LH, RTE is RH/LH and Justin will know what the TF is. He has QH greasable TREs as well. I think they are like 17 bucks. I replaced drag link and tie rod ends with them when I installed my Rover Tracks rods. Hard to beat the price.