EMECU- Engine Management Electronic Control Unit
#1
EMECU- Engine Management Electronic Control Unit
Hello all Disco lovers,
so after 3 months of trying to get my disco started i think i found the prob. a bad Engine Management Electronic Control Unit. sucks, i have replaced a fuel pump and filter, tps, crankshaft sensor. ripped my dash apart for a spider box to find that theirs not one.Truck cranked over just wouldn't start. Anyways i found my emecu to be rusted and carotid. So i am looking to see if anyone knows where i can get one, and if i can just plug it in and go.
Thanks Rover714
so after 3 months of trying to get my disco started i think i found the prob. a bad Engine Management Electronic Control Unit. sucks, i have replaced a fuel pump and filter, tps, crankshaft sensor. ripped my dash apart for a spider box to find that theirs not one.Truck cranked over just wouldn't start. Anyways i found my emecu to be rusted and carotid. So i am looking to see if anyone knows where i can get one, and if i can just plug it in and go.
Thanks Rover714
#2
Since no spider, you must have a newer D1. You would want to get an ECU and the green alarm module as a matched pair. I was lucky and got just the ECU from the boneyard and it worked. Paul Grant is a dismantler who sells them, he posts on here frequently.
If you edit your signature and add truck year, and location, sometimes others are near you, etc.
If you edit your signature and add truck year, and location, sometimes others are near you, etc.
#7
I just listed a matched pair out of the '98 LSE I'm parting (w/AEL). I think the price for the pair is $100 including shipping.
Before you buy anything, what version of the evaporative emissions system do you have? You must make sure to match the ECU with the evap system or you will perpetually have codes. Is your charcoal cannister (on the right inner fender wall back from the battery) round or rectangular? If it's rectangular you have the Advanced Evap system (AEL). You need an ECU mapped for that system. The change to AEL occurred early in the '97 MY.
The next thing you want to do is make sure to get the matching alarm ECU. Yes, you can SOMETIMES drop an EFI ECU into a DI and have it work but it's a crap shoot at best. Making sure you get the matching alarm ECU eliminates any need for syncing the EFI ECU.
Another thing, you can buy an ECU cheaper at a u-pull junkyard but I doubt it will come with a warranty and you have absolutely no idea whether the truck was running, running well or DOA when it came into the yard. Therefore, you could be paying $30 or more for a useless shiny box. Again, a crap shoot.
If it turns out you have a truck with AEL and need/want to go with the EFI and Alarm ECU's, the pair I have come with a 60 day warranty. They also came in on a customers truck. He drove the truck to me and I know what why it was sold for parts (overheated on his wife). I doubt you get that level of information/detail/warranty from a u-pull junkyard.
Before you buy anything, what version of the evaporative emissions system do you have? You must make sure to match the ECU with the evap system or you will perpetually have codes. Is your charcoal cannister (on the right inner fender wall back from the battery) round or rectangular? If it's rectangular you have the Advanced Evap system (AEL). You need an ECU mapped for that system. The change to AEL occurred early in the '97 MY.
The next thing you want to do is make sure to get the matching alarm ECU. Yes, you can SOMETIMES drop an EFI ECU into a DI and have it work but it's a crap shoot at best. Making sure you get the matching alarm ECU eliminates any need for syncing the EFI ECU.
Another thing, you can buy an ECU cheaper at a u-pull junkyard but I doubt it will come with a warranty and you have absolutely no idea whether the truck was running, running well or DOA when it came into the yard. Therefore, you could be paying $30 or more for a useless shiny box. Again, a crap shoot.
If it turns out you have a truck with AEL and need/want to go with the EFI and Alarm ECU's, the pair I have come with a 60 day warranty. They also came in on a customers truck. He drove the truck to me and I know what why it was sold for parts (overheated on his wife). I doubt you get that level of information/detail/warranty from a u-pull junkyard.
#9
The new ECU really should be reset before being placed in your truck. The adaptive values are likely way off, and who knows if it had any codes on the donor vehicle. I wish this was something Will, PT, and Paul did before sending them. Few people have the diagnostic systems required to do this.
#10