Hi,i'm poking my nose in at the end,just a thought but back in the day we did see problems on the Disco 1s and Defenders(96my to 99) with the crankshaft position sensor pickup on the flywheel would work loose on the rivets and wear a flat on the sensor tip. I think there may have been a bulletin ,also sticky valve's in the head did give problems but only really when hot.There's is also a safe VIN for this.You can see the wear on the postion sensor and it's common to get the P300 code as this is a randam misfire and not to one specific cylinder.I hope this helps.Robbie.

 

could it be the tps or maf sensor?

 

okay so i cleared the codes and i have taken it for a drive and it still dies at 3k rpm and wont go over.... anything under it runs mint, the engine light has not came back on at all, and on my way back to my house it all of a sudden is running perfectly fine all the way up the tach. question, which sensor will not throw a code or engine light when it acts up and could also be intermittent... still vss?

 

i noticed when ordering new o2 sensors i have to make sure i order the right ones because there are two types.....Advanced Evaporative Loss (AEL) or another type... is it the same when im ordering sensors or will the sensors be the same for all 1998

 

You have AEL. I beleive all trucks made after mid 97 have AEL if that helps you out

 

What Long Haul said, mid-'97 and later are all AEL.

Add a can of SeaFoam to the gas you have right now and run it bone dry, it could be just a bad gas issue.
Until you are at least half way into your next tank of gas, and make sure you use premium, you really cant do anything.

I had assumed that you had ran then tank dry already or pumped all the old gas out of the tank.

 

Drain that old gas out. Refill with something like Shell 93 or similar. The old gas probably has a lot of moisture contaminating it and giving you poor combustion. It will absorb moisture from the atmosphere over a long period of time like that. Hygroscopic nature.

 

so i guess to do that id have to drop the tank out eh? also are the plug wires known for going bad on these trucks?

 

You would not have to drain it, you can syphon it out into 5 gallon gas cans or whatever. They even have small hand pumps at the parts stores, dropping the tank is not needed.

Another way would be to undo the fuel filter line and then allow it to drain there letting the fuel pump run a few seconds at a time, might be risky though. Or the plate over the fuel pump can be removed to access the fuel pump. You can remove the fuel pump and you can see right into the fuel tank. You may want to drain it and wipe it clean depending on the internal condition.

You probably should go ahead and replace the fuel filter anyway. Also look at the condition of the steel fuel lines to ensure they are in solid condition. Mine were corroded as was the fuel filter. Merely lifting the fuel lines from the frame clamps resulted in multiple pinhole leaks that drained my tank onto the driveway overnight.

I have attached pics of the fuel filter, fuel lines and the top of the fuel tank where the fuel pump resides. If your sat for two years, I would strongly suggest you work you way thru the fuel system and ensure it is intact as it is probably original. I had to replace my entire steel fuel lines from the fuel pump to the engine bay/fuel rail connections.

 

Open the cargo door, remove the screws holding the trim piece down.
Remove trim piece.
Roll up carpet.
Remove the screws holding down the fuel pump access panel.
Remove fuel pump.
Pump out the old gas into a portable gas can or 3.

Get out as much as you can, replace the fuel pump and start the truck back up and if you can run it until it quits.
Then add fresh fuel and a bottle of injector cleaner.
Then start driving it and go from there.
The old gas can be used alittle at a time with a full tank.

Yes these trucks eat plug wires, cheap wires just do not last on these things.
Magnecor plug wires are the recommended ones to get.
STI is another.