I completely forgot to mention, when the coolant temperature gets around 210 degrees the overflow cap begins to leak coolant. I replaced the overflow cap with a new one so that rules out the cap being the problem.

 

the pcv valve is on the passenger side of the engine towards the back. It's the hose that connects to the intake plenum. inside of the hose there is supposed to be a curly piece of rubber meant to keep oil out of the intake and into the engine. The valve on my had broken up into tiny bits so I replaced it with a custom oil catch can. Don't think the fan clutch is supposed to turn at all when hot and the engine off though I'll double check on mine which was replaced very recently. You might have a point about the electric fans just turning on for the ac condenser though. It's good that there's no oil in the coolant though. If you still want to check for blown head gaskets check to see if auto zone rents out a leak down test. It just works by detecting exhaust gasses in coolant.

 

BTW did the coolant stop overflowing after you replaced the cap. I remember mine was overflowing but it was due to a crack in the overflow tank, apparently when there is a crack in the tank or a bad cap air can be sucked up and then coolant is pushed out.

 

BTW have you tried running it for a while with the cap off the tank to bleed it since you said you changed the coolant.

 

Coolant has not stopped overflowing since I replaced the cap. With the cap off and engine warm the fluid starts gushing out of the overflow tank. With the new cap on the cap leaks when the temps get to 220 degrees. If my overflow tank was damaged I'd assume it'd be leaking coolant, which I haven't seen? I think the exhaust gas test in the coolant is definitely next on the to do list.

 

yeah that does kinda sound like a blown head gasket but if coolant isn't mixing with oil it sounds like just a gasket and not a cracked block. Cost to replace a head gasket will probably cost around 100 dollars for the kit. Maybe more for the head bolts, but shouldn't be too much. It's the work involved that's a little bit of a pain, but from what I've read it's not that hard.

 

Parts are $150 plus whatever else you want up doing while you are in there.

GASKET SET CYLINDER HEAD 3.9/4.0/4.2/4.6, PLM083, STC4082 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts


Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts-Page not found or URL has changed

Head resurfacing is probably the largest single cost item. Depending on your location that can run $200-500 alone.

You should look at replacing those vacuum and breather (PCV) hoses, serp belt, plugs and wires, and or course you'll be dumping oil and coolant. A few more bucks for various lubes, sticky stuff, and beer and you will be north of $500.

It can be an arduous process, not for the unorganized or faint of heart. Definitely better with helper/assistant/mechanic/smarter person.

There are many threads about it here and on Discoweb which should be read thoroughly before attempting.

Also should have a VERY good understanding of the RAVE (workshop manual)...
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...02/#post536729

 

I'm going to purchase the head gasket set then. Has anyone ever regretted not purchasing the $200 ARP head studs and instead purchasing the factory head bolts?

 

This is awesome :

 

Any Florida members near Miami or Palm Beach who are willing to help me swap out my head gasket? I'll drive to you or I have a mini 4-car garage space that is perfect for wrenchin' on cars. I can offer some money and beer for the help. If you need space to disassemble or store your Rover as well let me know, we can work something out. Thanks