So the weather has warmed up a bit in South Carolina. According to my ultra gauge it is steady running around 201 with the air conditioner on. That’s with a 180 degree thermostat I just installed. Belt configuration is correct, no fluid leaking fan clutch seems to be ok. Should I flush or is this normal?

 

Make sure both electric auxiliary fans in front of the radiator are operating when the a/c snow flake switch is engaged. If not, replace one or both of them.

My temps were creeping into the mid to high 190's when only one was functioning.

Here's a cost effective $31 replacement from Rock Auto. VDO / CONTINENTALPM9115 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...&pt=6920&jsn=1

You'll just need to reuse the original fan blades and snip off and splice in the connector from the original electric motor.

 

Do you hear a gurgling sound in the heater core in the AM when you first start/drive it? Is it using any coolant? Just trying to get a sense if there might be a head gasket issue.

Have you added a bull bar, big lights or some mesh screen in front of the radiator recently that might impede airflow?

 

- remove leaves between A/C condensor and radiator
- check t-stat (or just simply replace it)
- replace fan clutch (Hayden 2634 for 'regular' or Hayden 2991 for 'severe') there are other options but you would then need a new fan as well. See chart.
- Change coolant if older than three years
- check electric fans in front of A/C condensor are operating whenever a/c is turned on

 

check temp with an infrared temp gauge, the dash gauge is horribly inaccurate. I fought with my D1 for almost a year until I figured out the readings I was getting on the OBDII scanner and the temp gauge were way off. With the temp gauge (on the dash) pegged, the system didn't even build up pressure, and I could stick a finger in the tank. (felt the side of the tank first. I'm not that dumb) With a 180 thermostat, my D1 hardly gets warm in the winter months (heater output) Luckily I had heated seats.

I replaced thermostat, water pump, hoses, expansion tank, cap, and radiator with no changes in how it acted. Now I just ignore the temp gauge on the dash. I suspect it is a wiring issue (on my truck)

 

jimvw57, if you are getting bad temp data from the OBD then I would suggest swapping in a new engine coolant temp sensor ECT8496 ( https://www.roverparts.com/instruments/sensors/ETC8496/ ). It is cheap and easy to install.

 

I agree with Walt. The ECU uses the engine temperature to adjust fuel, so it runs better when the value is accurate.

The sender for the dash gauge is different than the ECU ECT sensor. If both are wacky, you might have bad wiring or connections, which are not difficult to find and fix, but can be tedious tracing wires and reading diagrams.