Engine washed, now car is bad
Hello guys, I'd thought I get some opinions or if someone experienced this.
I took my 95' Disco to have its engine and lower chassis washed. I made sure to tell them to cover the ignition coil parts. After the wash was done, the car was really hesitant to start and failed to stay at idle and turned off twice. After keeping the engine on 2k rpm for a bit, the car was able to keep up.
However, the engine was making knocking sounds.
Summary, the "check engine light" and Oil light came on. I noticed the engine was overheating too, Oil was leaking from the sump underneath.
I'll have to check if that plug was damaged, but my O2 sensors got fried too ?
I took my 95' Disco to have its engine and lower chassis washed. I made sure to tell them to cover the ignition coil parts. After the wash was done, the car was really hesitant to start and failed to stay at idle and turned off twice. After keeping the engine on 2k rpm for a bit, the car was able to keep up.
However, the engine was making knocking sounds.
Summary, the "check engine light" and Oil light came on. I noticed the engine was overheating too, Oil was leaking from the sump underneath.
I'll have to check if that plug was damaged, but my O2 sensors got fried too ?
I just dropped my oil pan and it was glued very poorly, basicly fell off as I pulled the bolts, maybe they blew water into the sump? sounds like they flodded the electrical system though, are you wet under the dist. cap?
Knocking very bad. Change oil and filter. What drains out, if looks like milkshake, has water in the oil. Certainly agree that oil pan seal may have to be fixed. While it is off, clean out sludge in bottom of pan, and clean off the pickup screen. Sesnor should dry out, as should the other stuff they did not cover (MAF, ECU, etc.)
Found the leak and it's the front engine oil seal and valve covers. Will be replacing them over the weekend. Turns out, before the wash, it had been leaking oil and couldn't see the leak. So washing your engine is a positive thing after all.
if doing the front main good luck since I think unless you remove the rad to use an impact gun you have to drop the oil pan and jamb a 2x4 into the crankshaft
unless they caused the leaks, the way the valve cover gaskets are designed I think it is hard to make em leak mine were just loose bolts
if doing the front main good luck since I think unless you remove the rad to use an impact gun you have to drop the oil pan and jamb a 2x4 into the crankshaft
if doing the front main good luck since I think unless you remove the rad to use an impact gun you have to drop the oil pan and jamb a 2x4 into the crankshaft

Front seal is easy without removing radiator or any of that drama. Bump the starter is all it takes to loosen with a long handled 1/2" breaker bar under frame. To re-tighten you only need to torque enough to flatten the spring washer. You can use a belt wrench on the crank pulley on the backside where the it's rusted to hold it.
Get your seals from Rovahfarm.com.
Nope on both accounts. The valve cover gaskets leak when they become brittle, doesn't matter how much you tighten. Replace them and use a dab of Loctite blue to keep the bolts from loosening.
Front seal is easy without removing radiator or any of that drama. Bump the starter is all it takes to loosen with a long handled 1/2" breaker bar under frame. To re-tighten you only need to torque enough to flatten the spring washer. You can use a belt wrench on the crank pulley on the backside where the it's rusted to hold it.
Get your seals from Rovahfarm.com.
Front seal is easy without removing radiator or any of that drama. Bump the starter is all it takes to loosen with a long handled 1/2" breaker bar under frame. To re-tighten you only need to torque enough to flatten the spring washer. You can use a belt wrench on the crank pulley on the backside where the it's rusted to hold it.
Get your seals from Rovahfarm.com.
Front seal is easy without removing radiator or any of that drama. Bump the starter is all it takes to loosen with a long handled 1/2" breaker bar under frame. To re-tighten you only need to torque enough to flatten the spring washer. You can use a belt wrench on the crank pulley on the backside where the it's rusted to hold it.
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