It really is a piece of cake. One addition that has been suggested is to also at the same time use a breaker bar, with socket, on the belt tensioner. Instead of pushing to reduce tesnion, like taking off the belt; instead push the other way slightly to increase tension. Hit the wrench of choice on the fan clutch bolt toward YOUR left when you are standing in front of the truck facing the engine.

If you try to use just a big wrench and cheater bar extension to slowly turn the nut everything else turns. If you try to use a clamp or something to wedge against the pulley you may nick the side of the pulley, which will return the favor by shredding the new serpantine belt over time.

The Chevy clutch is the same diameter (6 inch). Do not get the Chevy clutch rated With A/C, that one is a larger diameter and does not fit as well. Been there, got the T shirt.

Now, the Chevy bolt holes are just a tad larger than Rover fan bolt holes, so you have to enlarge what you have. A very important point is that the cupped sides of the fan blade have to go back in the same way they came off. It is considered good practice to mark "front" on the fan when removed.

After doing this I decided to experiment more. I found that lots of Chevy / GM clutch units of the late 90's - early 00's - were also 6 inch diameter and the same reverse direction and the same water pump thread. Now every junk yard is not blessed with Land Rovers. But they have plenty of Chevys. For $20 I got fan and clutch, from a Blazer. Much deeper fan, stiffer pitch, moves more air. Had to trim slightly. Point being that if out of town away from regular sources of supply, or needing to budget repair costs the used parts Chevy GMC is a possibility.

 

Pics for what?
It is self explanatory.
Remove the old fan, remove the old fan clutch, install new fan clutch, put fan back.

 

Savannah, You trimmed the fan blades? If you get them off balance, that can become an issue I think.

 

Yup, wears out the water pump bearings faster.

 

Work with care and precision, no vibration noticed, had changed water pump before changed to larger fan. A few thousand miles at 60 mph since this was done. Dries road kill quicker....

 

Do you recall the fan blade part number?

 

You can get the fan at rockauto or the like for $30. URO brand is fine.

I'd go with the stock (somewhat pricey) fan clutch. The temp setting and length of shaft which positions it properly relative to the opening of fan shroud are key.

My new stock clutch engages at 195 deg and spins aggressively down to 187. Then it releases. Last weekend on a 4 hour highway ride I could clearly hear when it engaged and when it released as I monitored it with an OBD data reader.

I found the Torqflo too aggressive at all temps and less effective due to the different shaft length. It was my judgement that the risk of an overly aggressive clutch could prematurely eat up the bearing in the water pump. No need to potentially create one problem from another.