A few questions- might be simple??
#1
A few questions- might be simple??
Hi Folks, I'm pretty new to this forum and everyone has been really helpful so I'm asking a few questions that some seasoned "Rovers" may be able to help with;
1. My 1,300.00 1997 DISCO 1 has an overheating problem and when the temp gauge creeps up the oil light goes on, causing me to stop and let it cool down for a bit, there is a persistent squeak which I think is coming from the water pump, so I'm replacing that.
2. I think my plastic expansion tank is cracked- is this a common issue? I lost most of the coolant on my way home the other day and hoping I didn't damage anything.
3. I already fixed this, but the shock-bushings and rear sway-bar bushings were disintegrated and the rubber looked like black tar, all sticky and gooey- is this common?
4. Transfer case seems stuck, can't get the **** to go left to lock even after reading multiple posts on how it is "supposed" to work, is there a procedure for un-sticking this?
Well, that's it for now, any help is much appreciated.
Peter
1. My 1,300.00 1997 DISCO 1 has an overheating problem and when the temp gauge creeps up the oil light goes on, causing me to stop and let it cool down for a bit, there is a persistent squeak which I think is coming from the water pump, so I'm replacing that.
2. I think my plastic expansion tank is cracked- is this a common issue? I lost most of the coolant on my way home the other day and hoping I didn't damage anything.
3. I already fixed this, but the shock-bushings and rear sway-bar bushings were disintegrated and the rubber looked like black tar, all sticky and gooey- is this common?
4. Transfer case seems stuck, can't get the **** to go left to lock even after reading multiple posts on how it is "supposed" to work, is there a procedure for un-sticking this?
Well, that's it for now, any help is much appreciated.
Peter
#2
My first fear would be that you have a blown head gasket. Get a test kit from an autoparts store which tests for exhaust gases in your coolant. If it is a blown head gasket it would explain the blown coolant reservoir.
P.S. you are better off posting in the "Discovery 1" section of this forum.
P.S. you are better off posting in the "Discovery 1" section of this forum.
#3
Expansion tank cracking is pretty common. I had to replace mine when it split on the trail. Made for an interesting drive back..
T-case levers do stick when they aren't used much. Get underneath and lube everything up good and it may start working.
As oil gets hot, it does get a bit thinner and that could cause your oil light to come on. Make sure you have the right viscosity oil and check for a leaking head gasket
T-case levers do stick when they aren't used much. Get underneath and lube everything up good and it may start working.
As oil gets hot, it does get a bit thinner and that could cause your oil light to come on. Make sure you have the right viscosity oil and check for a leaking head gasket
#4
Thanks Guys, I'm still getting used to where to post and search in the forum so I'll try to be less of a pest. I will get the test kit and hope it's negative, replace the expansion tank, and do all the standard checks and maintenance, also will get under her and lube her up (the transfer diff) and report back in the proper section of the forum :-)
Peter
Peter
#5
Solve the overheating problem first. Sounds like a bad head gasket. As for oil, I would use Castrol GTX 10W-40. Has enough zinc to keep the engine properly lubricated. Many recommend Shell Rotella 15W-40 but I haven't had a great experience with it. I would only use it in 90F+ weather. But I'm probably the only one.
Last edited by DiscoCam; 09-07-2017 at 06:16 PM.
#6
When you shop around for an expansion tank, get the clear-ish one. I hear tell that those are less susceptible to cracking.
But yes, check for overheating cause first.
The swaybar bushings and others where the consistency of gooey tar as well on mine as well. Time will do that. Hell, it has 240K+ miles and I think the rear shocks I replaced a few months ago were factory originals.
But yes, check for overheating cause first.
The swaybar bushings and others where the consistency of gooey tar as well on mine as well. Time will do that. Hell, it has 240K+ miles and I think the rear shocks I replaced a few months ago were factory originals.
#7
Overheating as a rule on these starts with the fan clutch (viscous coupling). You shouldn't be able to hand spin it when warm, should resist spinning at all. When you replace the water pump replace the fan clutch too. Check Rovahfarm for your parts, best new part prices. Replace your thermostat too, cheap insurance. Make sure the coolant is green and mixed 50/50. I've bought vehicles that the coolant was weaker than 50% many times......
As far as a rear sway bar it's almost none existent with the tie bars new. You won't feel much of a difference so that can wait as is the same for the TC shifter. The shifter is kind of a pain to get to and usually it's frozen/corroded or bent linkage. Lot's of WD40/PB Blaster will get that going again.
As far as a rear sway bar it's almost none existent with the tie bars new. You won't feel much of a difference so that can wait as is the same for the TC shifter. The shifter is kind of a pain to get to and usually it's frozen/corroded or bent linkage. Lot's of WD40/PB Blaster will get that going again.
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Spencerfitch
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06-12-2010 02:49 PM