So now that it runs, time to fix all that other stuff. Here is the list, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated:

- the tach doesn't work ( it did before the engine swap?)
- the truck leans to the passenger rear (gangsta?)
- passenger headlight doesn't work (needs a bulb)
- seems like it has to crank for bit before it starts (vacuum leak?)
- passenger door lock doesn't work
- rear passenger window doesn't work
- cd changer doens't read cd's
- fuel vent line dry rotted

I know some of it is an easy fix, but the long cranking is annoying and I want the tach to work. I know I need to get new springs to fix the lean, but hey it runs and drives.

Dodger

 

If the tach worked before an engine swap I'd check the wiring. I'm assuming the serpentine belt is routed correctly. Could be a bad alternator I suppose, but check the simple/free stuff first.

Long cranking can be a number of things. When was the fuel filter last changed? If beyond the service interval change it. Otherwise check your fuel pressure at the rail and see if it's within spec.

Lean is probably a weak/broken spring.

Door doesn't lock at all, or just not lock with central locking. If the latter then I'd check the actuator. Or lock it by hand, which is what I do on my '95.

Malfunctioning window could be switch (both switches need to be good), motor, ECU or regulator.

 

My D1 would crank for a bit before it would start, but I didn't know it was unusual until the starter finally gave up the ghost. With the new starter I was amazed at how quickly it started.
But I'd check all of the other stuff first. I'm ok with a slow starter, as long as it starts.

 

Ok, I have the fuel filter, just haven't installed it yet. I will do that today. The starter seems to turn pretty fast, so I guess after I change the filter we will see. The door locks by hand just fine.

 

The circuit board in the window ECU typically has a couple of solder joints that tend to fracture. You can remove the circuit board and reflow all the solder joints and it will usually fix it. I had to do that on mine.

 

late night last night, replaced headlight, adjusted transmisson kickdown cable, checked tach circuit per rave manual (bad generator), removed all the carpet and padding, shop vac'd the 6 plus gallons of water in my floor boards. So now once it all dries out I will put some bed liner paint on it and reinstall the carpet (no padding). I guess this weekend I will check on the window ecu, and recharge the A/C.

Oh yeah, my coolant overflow tank is black, how do I know when it is full to the correct level?

 

If you have not resolved the source of the water, you should not reinstall the carpets yet. Some common things are leaks at the front windshield (leaking windshield seal), sunroof drain lines stopped up or loose, sunroof leaking, heater coil leaking behind dash, and a variety of otther items.

Also, isn't the black tank the one that should be replaced with the white one due to some kind of generic problem?

 

Today was productive, leak is from the windshield, the starting issue is from low fuel pressure. Also on the way home I hit a bump and now my interior lights do not work. God I love this truck!

 

DiscoMike told me that the black tank has a tendency to split at the seams, and really just give it all up at once. He said a lot of people had lost motors that way. I promptly replaced my tank with a white one. Nice little bit of insurance for $40.

If you look inside the tank, there is a little four-pointed stem like thing sticking up in the interior of the tank. Coolant level should be at the top of the stem when cold. That level is also even with the tank seams, I think.