First day on the road .... Not a good day
#101
None of these blocks are immune to this feature.
Sometimes you can't see anything visible. Sometimes you can see coolant washing of the block at the bottom of the sleeves when you remove the oil pan.
You can google land rover engine block testing and find youtube videos of guys pressure testing the blocks and finding leaks at the sleeves.
You also could have ordered an engine block tester online, instead of stating there are none available local.
One thing I would recommend though is to make sure you fix your overheat problem before wasting a lot time and money on a new engine just so you can overheat it again and be back to where you are now.
I've witnessed lots of overheat scenarios where enigines were replaced and they still overheated.
One vehicle (i'll never forget this one) would be fine while driving and then instantly pin the needle. It turned out to have a ball of some sort in the radiator tank. The ball would float around the tank then find its way to the radiator neck randomly and get stuck in the water neck blocking the coolant flow.
There are a few things I would recommend you check here.
Make sure your electric cooling fans operate (both of them). If you turn on the A/C they both sould come on, they should also come on when at a certain engine temp.
Check your viscous fan clutch is good, If you're not sure Get a new one
Make sure your radiator is not clogged or restricted. You mentioned Kseal that **** can ruin a good day.
Remove the radiator fan shroud drive the truck till it's at operating temp, shut off engine, remove the viscous fan and check for cold spots on the radiator. Have it checked and rodded again or replace it.
This is basic stuff.. Please make sure it's right before moving on.
Sometimes you can't see anything visible. Sometimes you can see coolant washing of the block at the bottom of the sleeves when you remove the oil pan.
You can google land rover engine block testing and find youtube videos of guys pressure testing the blocks and finding leaks at the sleeves.
You also could have ordered an engine block tester online, instead of stating there are none available local.
One thing I would recommend though is to make sure you fix your overheat problem before wasting a lot time and money on a new engine just so you can overheat it again and be back to where you are now.
I've witnessed lots of overheat scenarios where enigines were replaced and they still overheated.
One vehicle (i'll never forget this one) would be fine while driving and then instantly pin the needle. It turned out to have a ball of some sort in the radiator tank. The ball would float around the tank then find its way to the radiator neck randomly and get stuck in the water neck blocking the coolant flow.
There are a few things I would recommend you check here.
Make sure your electric cooling fans operate (both of them). If you turn on the A/C they both sould come on, they should also come on when at a certain engine temp.
Check your viscous fan clutch is good, If you're not sure Get a new one
Make sure your radiator is not clogged or restricted. You mentioned Kseal that **** can ruin a good day.
Remove the radiator fan shroud drive the truck till it's at operating temp, shut off engine, remove the viscous fan and check for cold spots on the radiator. Have it checked and rodded again or replace it.
This is basic stuff.. Please make sure it's right before moving on.
Last edited by threalassmikeg; 06-10-2012 at 05:58 AM.
#102
Thanks for the reply. Just to be clear though my truck no longer overheats other than when/if it gets air locked which I avoid by bleeding the coolant before driving each time (don't need to drive much).
I won the previous overheating battle with a new radiator, new water pump, new fan clutch and new thermostat. Now its just a matter of getting rid of the exhaust that contiunally bubbles into my coolant.
And I was referring to the chemical exhaust in coolant test that I could not find locally - figured it was easier to just pay a LR indy shop to do this test than order online.
Pressure test - well yes. I am kicking myself for not doing this while I had the heads off - guess I was just convinced it was just the HG which is the usual culprit. Live and learn I guess ...
I won the previous overheating battle with a new radiator, new water pump, new fan clutch and new thermostat. Now its just a matter of getting rid of the exhaust that contiunally bubbles into my coolant.
And I was referring to the chemical exhaust in coolant test that I could not find locally - figured it was easier to just pay a LR indy shop to do this test than order online.
Pressure test - well yes. I am kicking myself for not doing this while I had the heads off - guess I was just convinced it was just the HG which is the usual culprit. Live and learn I guess ...
None of these blocks are immune to this feature.
Sometimes you can't see anything visible. Sometimes you can see coolant washing of the block at the bottom of the sleeves when you remove the oil pan.
You can google land rover engine block testing and find youtube videos of guys pressure testing the blocks and finding leaks at the sleeves.
You also could have ordered an engine block tester online, instead of stating there are none available local.
One thing I would recommend though is to make sure you fix your overheat problem before wasting a lot time and money on a new engine just so you can overheat it again and be back to where you are now.
I've witnessed lots of overheat scenarios where enigines were replaced and they still overheated.
One vehicle (i'll never forget this one) would be fine while driving and then instantly pin the needle. It turned out to have a ball of some sort in the radiator tank. The ball would float around the tank then find its way to the radiator neck randomly and get stuck in the water neck blocking the coolant flow.
There are a few things I would recommend you check here.
Make sure your electric cooling fans operate (both of them). If you turn on the A/C they both sould come on, they should also come on when at a certain engine temp.
Check your viscous fan clutch is good, If you're not sure Get a new one
Make sure your radiator is not clogged or restricted. You mentioned Kseal that **** can ruin a good day.
Remove the radiator fan shroud drive the truck till it's at operating temp, shut off engine, remove the viscous fan and check for cold spots on the radiator. Have it checked and rodded again or replace it.
This is basic stuff.. Please make sure it's right before moving on.
Sometimes you can't see anything visible. Sometimes you can see coolant washing of the block at the bottom of the sleeves when you remove the oil pan.
You can google land rover engine block testing and find youtube videos of guys pressure testing the blocks and finding leaks at the sleeves.
You also could have ordered an engine block tester online, instead of stating there are none available local.
One thing I would recommend though is to make sure you fix your overheat problem before wasting a lot time and money on a new engine just so you can overheat it again and be back to where you are now.
I've witnessed lots of overheat scenarios where enigines were replaced and they still overheated.
One vehicle (i'll never forget this one) would be fine while driving and then instantly pin the needle. It turned out to have a ball of some sort in the radiator tank. The ball would float around the tank then find its way to the radiator neck randomly and get stuck in the water neck blocking the coolant flow.
There are a few things I would recommend you check here.
Make sure your electric cooling fans operate (both of them). If you turn on the A/C they both sould come on, they should also come on when at a certain engine temp.
Check your viscous fan clutch is good, If you're not sure Get a new one
Make sure your radiator is not clogged or restricted. You mentioned Kseal that **** can ruin a good day.
Remove the radiator fan shroud drive the truck till it's at operating temp, shut off engine, remove the viscous fan and check for cold spots on the radiator. Have it checked and rodded again or replace it.
This is basic stuff.. Please make sure it's right before moving on.
#103
Ok I didn't see a post (since you did the head gaskets and thought you had an o heat problem) that stated it was not overheating or you rectified it. And just to be on the safe side, I don't recall you stating that the electric cooling fans were cycling, make sure they are working and if they are not look into that too.
I didn't mean to "you should have/or could have done that" we've all been down this
road, some of us more than others. You made an educated decision.
I didn't mean to "you should have/or could have done that" we've all been down this
road, some of us more than others. You made an educated decision.
#104
Ok I didn't see a post (since you did the head gaskets and thought you had an o heat problem) that stated it was not overheating or you rectified it. And just to be on the safe side, I don't recall you stating that the electric cooling fans were cycling, make sure they are working and if they are not look into that too.
I didn't mean to "you should have/or could have done that" we've all been down this
road, some of us more than others. You made an educated decision.
I didn't mean to "you should have/or could have done that" we've all been down this
road, some of us more than others. You made an educated decision.
Next weekend I plan to pull the engine and do a pressure test on the block - this should hopefully make sure I do in fact have a slipped sleve. The last thing i want is to buy a new block and find out nothing was wrong with the old one and I just botched the HG job - I don't have any reason to believe I did since i followed the instructions to the book and calibrated my torque wrenches prior to starting but I guess weirder things have happened.