Radiator rod was the key thing with my recent experiences. Easiest and cheapest really next to the thermostat...which as you know I went down to the 160 for my hot climate. Don't run it hot bro.

 

Just to clarify, the OP basically said the fan had no resistance (stopping by hand-free wheeling) so it's the other way round, it's not locking.

I will add that if the motor has been overheating, occurring for awhile prior to your ownership, which I'm certain it did, it will probably need head gaskets in the near future. Mine took about a year and half to let go after a couple of overheats due to a cracked expansion tank. (I'm like many others here, mechanical with common sense. I replaced the expansion tank with a Ford Taurus closed tank - even cheaper than the stock tank.) As a precaution I would do them at your earliest convenience because it's inevitable when the motors been overheated. Honest! It's so common it's like Florida sunshine. Generally your looking at @ $300 for the top end gasket kit (valley pan included), head gaskets, and head bolts. Machining of the heads to remove warp is @ $75 to $150. Budget for it if nothing else, the day will come sooner not later now that you know it's been overheating.

Once the overheating is controlled and you've replaced the head gaskets you can rely on your Disco like no other, worry-free. They are great trucks and it's a best kept secret how reliable they are in any weather. I won't own another in my locale since they beat everything hands down in the snow.

 

I know almost nothing. I ran my truck too hot a few times. I didn't run it for more than 10 miles or so at a time for over a year. I did everything on the cooling system list with improvements (ie. hd fan and 160 thermo) EXCEPT re rod the radiator even though I made repairs to it. It still ran hot. Then I took the rad in to have it rodded and since then it has worked beautifully. That was a $50 repair. Having said that I'm sure head gaskets are in my future.

 

Mega-dittos on the rad work. Had mine boiled, baked, pressurized, acid-dipped, flow-tested and ultimately rodded for $90. Once the tank was off of the 35 rows that should be flowing only 13 were. With a 180 stat I'm indicating just below 9:00 on the temp gauge. Of course it was only 7 deg F driving in to work this AM!

Removing the radiator is not a difficult job but it is a messy one. There's no drain or petcock on the rad so you must remove the lower hose and spill coolant everywhere. This is a multi-hose beast that is likely old and brittle...be careful. Then your coolers (oil and trans depending year, model) are also plumbed in to the rad. They will leak about 1/2 a qt each and it will run down the frame rail and everywhere. You will also need to replace the rubber o-rings on each of the lines where they enter the rad. O-rings are .30 at the hardware store. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the replies, I appreciate them! I was wrong with my H on the gauge reference I thought it was at the top white line. To clarify I've never let it get above ten oclock position, with the new fan clutch never got to nine oclock on the way to work (60 degree ambient) on the way home (85 or so ambient, 40 min. drive) stayed below nine until I got caught at a 3 light wait cooled off again once I was going 55ish. At the light it was weird I checked it after the first light, then looked down again after I had turned and it was almost at 10 oclock, running the heat was enough to bring it down to 9 then it dropped below once up to speed. I kinda think the head gasket may already have an issue, I'm replacing the thermostat tomorrow. If the thermostat isn't bad (will test it) then its parked until I get the radiator rodded next week ($69). A different question is it common for seat motors to go, the pass. side won't go forward or back but tilt and recline work fine. I haven't messed with it yet, just wondering if there is an obvious direction to go in.

 

1. Any noises like water rushing through pipes usnder dah (exhaust gas in coolant), coolant loss, or white smoke out the exhaust - all signs of HG problem? There is a $50 chemical test (does 12 - 15 tests) you can buy at auto parts store, will proof positive for HG internal leak.

2. You can run a 180 or even a 160 stat. Don't run no stat, will eat mpg. 160 might cause small drop in mpg. If stat has no "vent" hole, drill one (1/8 inch) and it goes at 12:00 position - to pass any trapped bubbles.

3. Stat is like $10 and can be done this weekend at home. Does not make up for partial blocked radiator. Radiator is the problem and will continue when it gets warmer. If you take out radiator upper plug, use a flash light and you can see some of the tube ends, may have white crust on them.

4. Seat motors go out, you can remove drive cable, it is like an old speedo cable, chuck up in drill and run to comfortable position. Check fuses first. I bought two passenger seats from the u-pull-it boneyard, $24 each, a passenger will replace driver seat and lumbar **** just cleard door frame. If you go that route, snag seat switches as well.

4. Normal temp on mine at 50 mph with 180 stat is 180 -183 F.

 

I was planning on doing the stat no matter what, if the old one passes a function check I'll be pulling the radiator next. My HG suspicions lie in the random overheating, I have yet to be able to get it to heat up under the same set of circumstances yet. No smoke, smell, or water in oil it just acts like another car I chased an overheating problem on (new rad. water pump, thermostat, temp sensor, fan & clutch) ended up being a cracked head no other symptoms then the over heating.

 

Thank you for the clarification.

 

well thermostat was stuck partially open it now gets to about 9:30 and will get no hotter. Still warmer then I would like so I'm getting the radiator done next week. Put it on a lift finally this weekend and rear diff had water in the gear lube changed that out, front diff had a lot of metal in the gear lube. transfer case looked good, engine oil black, but no metal. Didn't change transmission fluid it wasn't real bad. Found a used diff for 75 which I'm going to throw up front next weekend. Then I should be G2G with my new rover, thanks for the help thus far guys.

 

Remove and clean the axle breather on the rear axle, when I got my truck it was clogged and the rear end had water in it too as well as leaking from the pinion seal.
Replaced the axle breather, changed the gear lube and have not had a problem since, either with leaks or water.