hello all,
i just retired from the army and decided to get me a dream rig... wanted to know more about this rig as far as issues and concerns so far the only issues i have seen are small water amount in the driver and pass floor boards.
1998 LAND ROVER DISO 1
188XXX
also i have a muti cd disk changer if any one wants it
put new system in and just found this under the pass seat.

 

There are drain nipples for the AC condensate that leave thru each side of the transmission tunnel. Use a wire to open them up, can be clogged, make over flow into cabin. You'll want to look at the tech sticky area, get the high miles list of things to go over. At your miles, hope that head gaskets have already been done.

Unlike Detroit vehicles, virtually everything under the D1 is designed to be greased (and needs to be greased). Front CV joints (swivels), prop shaft U joints (can upgrade to greaseable), differentials and transfer case (85W150 helps quiet the older ones), tranny fluid change and filter replace, etc. Good oil to run is Shell 15W40 RotellaT - cheap, widely available, lots of cleaning compounds in it. In the tech area you'll find write ups on everything, like low loss extra capacity oil filters, etc.

Do not trust the engine temp gauge. It is highly optomistic. Anything above 9:00 should be investigated. You can purchase a neat display (Ultra Gauge, about $70) that plugs in the OBDII port, and shows anything a basic scanner can show, plus alarm points you set, plus reset codes. Like coolant temp. Stock stat is 195, I run a 180F in mine. But that's just me.

The whole factory manual set is called the RAVE, it is a free download below. Has shop, electrical, owners, etc.

These vehicles are great, but take a lot of service, so if you DIY you can save a lot.

 

you really don't trust the factory thermostat? mine always stays just under 9, I got a bluetooth obd2 adapter on the way to link with my torque app. gonna give that a go and see how I like it. If it sucks, Im going to the ultra guage. for 70 bucks you cant really do better. ( I am trying to though, 22 bux on obd2 bluetooth, and 5 bucks for torque)

 

The factory stat is not the issue. The GAUGE is the issue. The sender and gauge work together to give you a mild clue that the engine is A. Cold. B. Up to temp. C. Melting.

The ultragauge reads what the ECU SENSOR reads, which is far more accurate than what the archaic SENDER can read.

 

How much for the Bluetooth sensor

 

The factory stat in a D1 is analog, and has a broad "normal range" - outside what prudent owners would want. When you have a thermostat that starts opening at 195, you don't expect 235 F while driving under cruise conditions, no trailer. With the gauge I pictured, how hot would it be far up the gauge just before it goes into the red? On a D2, the ECU drives the gauge directly, and keeps it at 50% over a wide variatioon in temp. Maybe just me, but I like to see overheat creeping up on me before I get 50 miles from the next exit. Of course Rover thinks we are too dumb to watch an oil PSI gauge as well.....

 

Water in floor boards could be sunroof drains also, you need to pull up your carpet and check for rust and let it dry out.

 

I got mine on amazon for 22$ shipped, I have read though that the kind I bought an ELM327 are not very reliable. they sell some nicer ones for around 70-100 bucks.. Mine should be arriving this week. I will update as to how awesome/crappy it turns out

 

I have the Elm also. Bought it to see how well she worked. They are okay as long as you are only monitoring a few items at a time. The refresh rate(ping speed) is slow when more than 3-5 sensors are being monitored. But not a bad reader for the price since it can also read and clear codes. I like the UltraGauge better, but it costs 3 times as much. I'd love to see how the ScanGauge compares.

 

do you use the torque app with the ELM? if not what do you use?