Sure thing. I posted a link on pg 3 of this thread, but to save you a couple clicks, here's the raw text version of it.


"http://www.ebay.com/itm/182130686233"


Hope this thread helps someone in the future. BTW, I got the pump installed and it started right up after the fuel got up to the rail. Took it for a spin and all is good again. Will monitor it for a while and post up if it seems like I'm good to go now.


Thanks to everyone who helped out!

 

You did a great job following through! Enjoy your rusty trusty Rover.

 

Ok, so I have made several trips with the disco and I am convinced I have the no-starting problems fixed. I don't think that relay, which I originally posted about, had anything to do with my no-start issues. I believe that it was 100% caused by my fuel pump.

Here are a couple pix of the new one installed and the old part out of the car:








Here are some final notes about the entire process...for anyone trying to diagnose what is wrong when the car is not starting:

1. check if there is fuel pressure to the rail which feeds the injectors - to do this, there is a valve on the passenger side of the fuel rail. It looks like the valve stem of a tire. You may have a cap on it even that you need to unscrew. Then you can press the valve with a screwdriver tip and see if gas squirts out. If no gas comes out then your problem may be with the fuel pump. Continue on to next step.

2. open the back door, remove screws from the kickplate by the bumper, take up the carpet and padding underneath, and then remove the six screws holding on the fuel pump cover. Unplug the connector and insert the ends of some long speaker wire into the two connections furthest away from the little catch on the plug (one of the two wires is white with a purplish-pink stripe on it). Run the other end of the speaker wire up to the front of the car so you can connect a multimeter to them and watch the meter as you turn the key. If you get 12 volts for 4-5 seconds then you have voltage going to the fuel pump.

If there's no pressure at the fuel rail and there is voltage at the fuel pump, then you either have a bad fuel pump, a completely blocked fuel filter, or maybe a problem with the fuel pressure regulator (or I suppose a hole in the gas line).

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if you DON'T have power to the pump when you turn the key, start looking at things like fuel pump fuse, fuel pump relay(or multifunction relay), junction connectors, etc.

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if you do have fuel pressure at the rail, then you can rule out the fuel pump as the problem and might need to start looking at some of the sensors on the car. the inertia sensor can just be bypassed temporarily to test if it is bad by jumping the two connections on the plug to each other. Don't leave it that way though - once you rule out that as a problem make sure to reconnect it.

There is also the crankshaft position sensor, throttle position sensor, camshaft position sensor, mass airflow sensor, air intake temp sensor, coolant temp sensor, fuel temp sensor. quite honestly, at this point I'd check to make sure I have spark on the plugs. And could check injectors too.

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If you do end up having to replace your fuel pump - here are some learnings:

1. Ordered fuel pump from ebay and it was quite inexpensive ($60) and delivered quickly (in about 2-3 days).
2. Ordered fuel pump to gas tank seal also off ebay for about $10 and it was delivered just as fast as the pump. I probably could have gotten by with re-using the old seal. Unlike the rest of the truck, the seal was actually in pretty decent shape.
3. Looking back, I would have also ordered a set of two compression nuts and two compression sleeves off ebay for $6 delivered. Just to have brand new nuts. I was able to reuse mine, but the new ones would have been well worth the money.
4. Vacuum the area maticulously before taking the old pump out - you will thank yourself later. I used a rubber mallot and a short bit of conduit tubing to tap the retaining ring off of the old pump and I kicked up a lot of debris that was sitting in the crevice. Vacuum all of that up with a thin nozzle on your shopvac - you don't need that stuff falling into and washing around in your fuel tank.
5. When pulling the old pump out, you are inevidibly going to spill a little gas around - I would lay some rags around to soak up any accidental spills and be SUPER careful not to cause any sparks while your gas tank opening is exposed - duh, right?
6. once the old pump is out, chances are your pump-to-tank-seal came out with the pump. Now is the time to either put the new seal in or to clean up the old one and reinstall that. Then the pump goes in once the seal is in.
7. press the pump down and spin the retaining ring on to complete the pump into the tank install.
8. not done yet though. Need to put the compression nuts and sleeves on the pump tubing and re-install the hoses - tighten up the compression fittings.
9. connect up the electrical plug to the pump.
10. leave the fuel pump cover off for the first few drives. Go back and check to make sure your fittings aren't leaking.
11. reinstall fuel pump cover and screws and put back your padding and carpeting and kick plate.
12. crack a beer and pat yourself on the back for a job well done! Just don't drive after cracking the beer, ok?

Anyway, this was a pretty painless fix and I had a good time doing it.

Again, thank you for all of your help and I hope this thread can help someone in the future.

 

Spent just under $100 for AC Delco pump, strainer and enough hose to loop outbound side. Same on screws but did use old ring. Airtex from 2005, most parts fine. Crystallized hoses internally. Used 2 stainless ring clamps offset 180 at each end pump to assy top. So far so good and nowhere near $581 plus tax Winchester Auto first quoted. More faith in AC Delco than no name from PRC. Still knocking on wood and thanking deities for no rust and smooth as silk engine.

 

Is this the multifunction relay? And is it suppose to look like this?
Is there suppose to be 2 tubes on the top of the cover