Hi all,
This is my first post, I have a problem with my 2006 LR3 that I really could use some help with. I first started seeing suspension faults when it was below ~40dF outside back in Feb 2012. I took it to the dealer, they replaced the Air Dryer and the compressor relay in Feb. The problem went away for 6+ months.
As fall hit I started seeing an occasional fault when the outside temp dipped below ~50dF in the morning. After the LR3 warmed up (10 min of driving) I could restart the car and the fault would clear. Took it to the dealer, they replaced the battery saying that it was reporting “voltage out of range”. This did not fix the problem or change the behavior of the fault light. Back to the dealer, they then said it was reporting a bad rear height sensor and pressure sensor. They replaced both rear height sensors and the pressure sensor. Still no change. The vehicle is back at the dealer right now.
Does anyone have any advice on what the problem might be or the best way to troubleshoot the problem at this point?

I should point out that the fault is always a red fault light combined with the do not drive over 30 MPH message. The vehicle basically stays at the previous height it was set at when the fault is lit.

Sorry for the long post!

 

I can't address your truck's specifics, but I can say that whoever designed the electronics in LR3s did so with the intent of increasing Land Rover Dealer and Factory revenues.

Your trips to the dealer sound familiar. They replace things and then get a deer-in-the-headlights look when the original fault isn't fixed.

It's acting. They likely are pretty sure that they are taking a shot in the dark, and hoping for a fix.....this time. It isn't the dealer, it's the machine.

My last experience with our 2006 LR resulted from reading that a new battery makes everything cozy with LRs...so I changed out the battery. MISTAKE...had to get it towed to the stealer, and the "fix" cost over $3000.

The SA (who by that time we'd become to know too well) even drove it home several times in order to verify that it was...hahahahahaha, fixed. BS

Our drive home from the dealer's shop lasted 40 minutes, of which the last 20 were spent looking at the Check Engine light, and NOT listening to the radio anymore.

I did a hard reset and traded the truck the next day. Pity on my soul, I know.

 

I can address the specifics.

I know I sound like a broken record but tell your dealer to replace the brake light switch. Also replace all your tail light bulbs with genuine Land Rover. The link below shows you how to replace the brake light switch if you want to do it yourself.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Brake Light Switch Replacement

One reason I think it is the switch is that by the sound of it, the air system works but you get a bunch of nasty messages and then the vehicle goes into what I call safe mode - that is the do not drive fast message and the freezing of the air system height - all to protect you from yourself - or maybe to protect LR from lawyers. A manufacturer only get successfully sued if the vehicle runs, not if it stops.

I regard the primary clue to your problem as being the outside temperature is getting colder. I used to get the odd nasty message as soon as winter hit; I noticed after changing the switch for unrelated reasons, the nasty messages stopped. The brake light switch can be what is causing all the other error codes as well - and no, most dealers do not know of the problems the switch can cause.

I expect the new battery was a good idea but do yourself a favor and put your 3 on a charger overnight for at least a week. I use a CTEK US3300 as that one seems to not destroy the 3 - does more good than harm. For a number of reasons, the charging system is not capable of fully charging the battery and many false codes result from a low state of charge as opposed to a low system operating voltage - it is a fussy electrical system.

 

Thanks all for the replies. At this point the vehicle has been at their shop for over 10 days. The dealer has traced suspect wiring and even replaced the suspension module without success. Last I heard they were going to flash the vehicle with new software.
The good news is they are not charging me for any of this. They said they will return it fixed and for no charge. (They charged me only for a battery and the compressor fix in Feb was covered by warranty.)

Thanks again for any tips.

 

......

 

After warranty you get to meet this guy....

 

That never gets old! I laugh every time I see it! Lady at work took her Mazda 3 to get the oil changed and the tried to tell her she needed a new radiator, brakes, blinker fluid, etc. She told them not right now, but all I could picture was this guy...bwahahahaha!!!!

 

If not already replaced, and since it appears none of the other fixes are solving the problem, I really think there is not much to loose by replacing the brake light switch.

The source of all the problems may be the second set of contacts within the switch - the shop people may understand that. Even the electro viscous fan operation is affected by the second set of contacts.

I am now half way thru my second winter of not yet any false HDC, tranny or cruise control warnings. Prior to the switch replacement, as soon as it got cold, the warnings started.

This winters problem is now the yellow brake pad wear indicator light is going on at about -10C and off at -5C and flickering and chiming in between along with the Brake Pad Wear message on the display. That is a new one this year for me. I presume the connector where either the front or rear sensor joins the harness makes and breaks with the temperature.

They are both too difficult to get at in the cold. Inside where it is heated, all works so I have not yet determined the offending sensor. I only have about 20,000 km on the ceramic pads, front and rear, pad wear is about one mm so that should not be the problem and if it was, the light should stay on and not be temperature dependent.