Well, this is fun. notny41, keep us updated.

 

Will do, in the meantime, I am super happy to have gotten the old compression nuts off. One of them I had to cut into the nut a couple of times with a dremel emery wheel, but I got them both off and saved the original fittings! Yeay!!!




boy those tubes were thin and fragile and just basically twisted and broke off with little to no effort (not intending on breaking them but that actually made it a little easier to get them off). I took the dremel with a wire wheel on it to clean up the threads on the fittings.

I also was able to get the threaded ring off that holds the pump into the tank. I do believe I am all ready for the new pump. Sure hope it is the complete unit...

 

okay when you take the pump out be careful so you dont stretch the gasket which is rubber because it could be the original. Once you take out the pump shake out the gas into a container. then clean every inch of the dirt off it.
also when you put in the new pump you will need a tool to crimp on those fittings because the pump has straight piecs comng out with no fittings and the old pump has the fittings crimped on. You must put the gasket in first and be
careful not to stretch it. then place the pump in straight with the connections
in the same place. You must be gentle. Then you have to push the new pump in until it is flush or the ring will not screw back on. My gasket was stretched and I had to buy a new one. I am the 3rd or 4th owner and have no idea how many pumps were installed. I replaced the motor like i said for 25, started like a dream.

 

Well the part that was supposed to get here on or before Aug 1 arrived today and I just took it out to the Disco, plugged in the electrical connection, turned the key and I could hear the motor going... My new pump-to-tank seal came today too so I am pretty much all set to install this thing, but I forgot to order the little compression nuts and olives for the compression fittings. I was able to salvage the old nuts (one may not work since I had to dremel it) but I'm wondering where I can get the olives locally? I know I can order them from ebay for about $6 but then I'm out of commission for another 5-6 days. I've read that other people have used 5/32 ones. The only thing any of the auto shops around here carry are standard sizes. No metric. Any ideas?

 

Looks like somebody owes somebody an apology. (Roverlady1)
And you don't need to crimp anything. As you already know you need a new nut and olive, that's it.
I thought the nuts/olives were standard 5/16"......
See what Home Depot has. Bring the good nut with and match it up.

 

Fish, I think you may be right about the 5/16. I just measured the tube with a caliper. and it is 5/16. I 'll haul my nuts up to menards (LOL) and see if they are the same threads too. I was assuming since they came off a rover that they would be metric.

 

fish apparently you have never seen the fuel pump assembly on a 94 landrover se7. you are wrong buddy. dont insinuate that im stupid because you think that women are not mechanics. I have been rebuilding cars for 45 years.
I started grabbing landrovers when i found lazy men trashing and throwing them in the junk yards and parting them out when they dont know how to fix them.
landrovers are a ford engine with a fancy body and a bunch of annoying sensors.
when regulary mechanics look at them they think what idiot would build it like that. Yes I do love landrovers and rangerovers but its the most annoying vehicle I have ever worked on. The one im restoring had bad brake sensors so they gave up on it.

 

Get off the "I'm a woman" kick because I don't care. You very strongly insisted you were right and pretty much said anyone else saying otherwise is an idiot. Now it turns out you were in fact WRONG and instead of manning up (sorry I had to) and offering an apology you play the woman card. Pretty weak.
The fuel pump on a 94 is the same all the way up to mid 97. The trim line, SE7, SD, LE, etc has no bearing on the fuel pump.
And you should probably stop talking before you further embarrass yourself. Every North American Discovery 1, 2, RRC, P38, D90 and D110 have a BUICK based engine, not a Ford. Please don't tell me people pay you money to work on their trucks?
I'm sure you know plenty about these vehicles and I think its great that you work on them. I'm just saying there's ways to offer up advice without insisting you are absolutely correct.

 

just got some 5/16" compression sleeves from Menards and they fit very nicely on the tubes coming out of the pump. The nuts, I believe, are indeed metric. 12mm possibly with a 1.0 thread pitch if I'm reading my gauge right. Unfortunately I didn't have a 12MM 1.0 tap in my set, but I found that I could use the 10mm 1.0 tap and run that inside the threads by hand to clean them up, so that didn't work out just too bad. I'm going to try to use the nut that I dremel'd and put it on the incoming tube - I believe there is less pressure on that line.

 

Maybe someone snuck(sp) some old Ford engines into all the California Rovers.

Regardless, notny41, could you post up a link to where you found the fuel pump and assembly for $60.00? I'm guessing it wasn't Partsgeek.