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front right caliper locks up

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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 02:11 PM
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hallfleming's Avatar
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Default front right caliper locks up

My 96' I just got had a issue from the previous owner of the front right caliper locking up after the pressing the brakes. They replaced the caliper and master cylinder in hopes of fixing it. This all happened after pads and rotors were done. Someone suggested to the owner that the previous mechanic had twisted the brake hose to that caliper and that caused the issue. I got the truck home after several stops and relieving pressure from the bleeder fitting to unlock the caliper. I replaced that brake hose and it happened again!

Any suggestions?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 07:52 PM
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Sounds like the caliper piston might be binding (maybe "new" caliper was not so good), and there have been posts about the proportioning valve (also called the pressure reducing valve in the RAVE manual).
 
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 07:59 PM
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thanks for the reply. i'll research that proportional valve. i've pulled the abs fuse under the hood and will try that tomorrow. maybe it has a solenoid for that wheel that won't release...
 
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 04:49 PM
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AIR, AIR, AIR. You should perform a real good bleed job. Not by pumping the brake pedal. Rent a nice one man tool from the auto parts store. Then go in and check other components if it still occurs.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 05:02 PM
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Air won't cause the caliper to lock up and bleeding the brakes by pumping the pedal is as good as any othee method.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 06:56 AM
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It's interesting that I had a problem with the right front caliper on my '96. My truck would pull to the left though, because the right caliper had a leaking piston seal. I got a rebuild kit and replaced the seals in the caliper and it's fine now. Sounds like you're going to have to pull that caliper off and eyeball the pistons and bores.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 07:09 AM
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Wait a minute, there's a similar thread just below started by zracin and answered by priceg -
The reason I asked about the master cylinder, is, I have had more than one occasion where the air gap from the booster to the master cylinder was too tight causing the master cylinder to engage. I have stopped using after market cylinders and only use factory parts for this repair. If you can open the bleeder valves on the calipers,and release the pressure, you have diagnosed your master cylinder as being pre loaded. Hope this helps. -
In his case, it was an aftermarket master cylinder that caused the problem.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 07:36 AM
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Nice catch! I've sent a message to the PO to see where he got the master cylinder. We'll see!

Originally Posted by DiscoJag
Wait a minute, there's a similar thread just below started by zracin and answered by priceg -
The reason I asked about the master cylinder, is, I have had more than one occasion where the air gap from the booster to the master cylinder was too tight causing the master cylinder to engage. I have stopped using after market cylinders and only use factory parts for this repair. If you can open the bleeder valves on the calipers,and release the pressure, you have diagnosed your master cylinder as being pre loaded. Hope this helps. -
In his case, it was an aftermarket master cylinder that caused the problem.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 01:11 PM
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Look at it and see if it has any markings that may identify it as either LR or not.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 04:08 PM
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The PO told me it was from Advance. He had it put on after the locking caliper issue in hopes of fixing it.

Originally Posted by Danny Lee 97 Disco
Look at it and see if it has any markings that may identify it as either LR or not.
 
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