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Front timing cover

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  #11  
Old 06-02-2015, 05:44 AM
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I would stick with the black RTV, i have used the blue stuff in 20 years. "i" believe the reason i when to the black was the blue was not up to the task of some of the newer fluids.
 
  #12  
Old 06-02-2015, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by TOM R
Aaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhh f ing auto correct
Pack with vasoline
Ah, that makes more sense. There's a reason I keep autocorrect turned off. I make enough typos as it is.

Can you imagine the carnage once cars have autocorrect?

Originally Posted by loanrangie
Vaseline works fine, done it a few times myself when rebuilt engine wouldnt prime the pump.
Mind you this was in 3.5's with the external pump not the 3.9/4.0 crank driven pump.
Yeah, that will work, just gasoline won't LOL

I use assembly grease for two reasons. I use it when I'm building engines so I have it on hand, and it's formulated to mix with engine oil without any ill effects.
 
  #13  
Old 06-02-2015, 06:30 AM
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Anti, glad I could make someone smile today lol
 
  #14  
Old 06-02-2015, 11:21 AM
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I used the orange permatex stuff. Oil and gas resistant. Seems to be working well for me, no leaks
 
  #15  
Old 06-02-2015, 12:37 PM
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It all woks but I find the ultra gray /black seems better IMO different consistancy , and the right stuff wow no leaks but also no getting it apart lol
 
  #16  
Old 06-02-2015, 11:26 PM
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Default Locktite

Do I really have to apply Locktite to the cover plate screws of the oil pump? And also, must I put Locktite to the timing cover bolts?
The Rave Overhaul says to use Locktite 222 on the oilpump cover plate screws. Does it matter if I get a run of the mill Locktite tube. The tube I have here says "medium strength threadlocker" written on it.
What to do?
 
  #17  
Old 06-03-2015, 05:22 AM
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locktite blue is general purpose, red is heavy duty usually need to apply heat to break the bolts free. So a couple drops of blue on the pump screws its not need anywhere else
 
  #18  
Old 06-07-2015, 07:53 PM
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Default Now what!

I got the timing cover on, thanks to u guys. It really wasn't a big deal after getting the advice. I put the crank shaft pulley back on after, but I need a ratchet attachment for my torque wrench. I put some muscle into it, and made it pretty tight.
I opened the rest of my Atlantic British HG kit, and started on the exhaust manifold gaskets. I am going to call them tomorrow and give them a piece of my mind. They sent me these thin metal gaskets that are pressed together. There are 4 pin punches in 3 groups of the gaskets. I have to separate the gaskets from one another. They are pressed so hard together at those "pin-punch" marks, that I sliced my fingers up to the point of dripping blood. The once nice, new, flat gaskets are bent at various points where I was levering them apart. It's been a couple days and these "paper cuts" have kept me nice and angry, so I can give them a proper WTF phone call on Monday morning.
Maybe I'm all wrong, and I went about them stupidly. Please let me know if I need to wear a dunce cap, or buy a bull-horn to use into the phone mic when I call them tomorrow.
Sumeet
 
  #19  
Old 06-08-2015, 03:11 AM
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There are several kinds of gaskets.
A multilayer (you can see the layers) thin smooth metal one that has embossed ridges and is one gasket for two ports. Another is of a sandwich construction that is dimpled and is one gasket per port but usually has sealed edges.
Another that covers two ports but is dimpled sandwich construction, also with sealed edges.
Sounds like you got the first one.

First type


Second


Third
 

Last edited by antichrist; 06-08-2015 at 03:21 AM.
  #20  
Old 06-08-2015, 08:49 AM
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Default Makes no sense to me

I phoned Atlantic British, and they told me that the thin metal gaskets are meant to be pressed together. They are supposedly used however I need them as shims. So I guess I ruined them. None are perfectly flat (aside from the embossed edges).
Of the pics above, which kind should I buy to replace them?
 


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