You can also run power to the purple/white wire at the pump and see if the pump is running. gordo

 

Borrow someone for a couple minutes. Put your ear over fuel pump (cargo bay).
Have helper turn key to position II (don't start), listen for pump.
If you hear it, check for clogged filters.
If no sound, I'd start at the pump looking for 12vdc and work toward the front.

 

I mentioned checking the harness in the LR wheel well area & wiring at the pump

 

If you mean Left Rear wheel well, I don’t see what harness you’re talking about.

I’ve traced the purple/white wire to the firewall and see no signs of damage. I’ve taken off the fuel tank cover in the back, plugs are fine.

I have no red LED light on the dashboard whatsoever. I think the previous owner did some goofy stuff to this disco’s security.

When I plug in my OBD2 it gets nothing. Same for my Ultra-Gauge.

Status is still: Dash comes on, all exterior lights work, starter cranks. No prime from fuel pump.

I’m going to need a professional to come visit me. This is way over my head at this point. Thanks for the replies thus far, guys.

Here’s my dashboard currently:

 

You need to measure the voltage at the harness connector up along the frame in the LR wheel well from the engine to the that point, then you need to verify the harness from that point back to the fuel pump. OBD2 wise you need to verify via pin #16 has power. Whenever I see a D1 act like this I verify not immobilized, voltage at harness before the final harness over the tank, and then at the tank. Last but not least remove the black plastic cover over the engine ECU, remove all the connectors, and then open that bad boy up. If you see any damage to the PCB = either time to have some one repair the traces/solder joints, or hunt down a good ECU which isn't corroded to hell n back. A guy had similar issues over on Dweb for like 2-3 months, I said check ECU, he basically rebuilt the darn thing, then he still had issues, finally pulled the ECU, and it had a giant hole rusted right thru it and the PCB was done for. Slapped in a good unit and all the funky issues = gone for good.

 

Not thinking it’s the ECU, everything looks clean, nothing blown. Could still be a short somewhere. Does anyone have a good electronic sensor/probe recommendation?


I read a weird post from 2017 where a guy’s disco wouldn’t prime fuel unless his trunk door was open. I wish my issue was that simple...

 

You're in Ft Wayne?
Just give P.T a call, he can take care of you.
https://goo.gl/maps/vym54Ku6DUu6RpQH6

 

Funny, the guy working at my local O’Reilly recommended him too. Thanks, Logan. I’ll give him a call.

 

Update:
For kicks, I replaced the fuel pump. The wires inside that connect to the plug were burnt to a crisp. But after putting the new one in, no dice.

My rover has the green alarm box, 10as. No spider. That is the culprit I’m betting on. It’s REALLY confusing trying to find reliable info about how to get around my problem, which again is:
Dash turns on, all lights work, cranks, no start.
I threw some starting fluid in, and it didn’t even fire. So no spark too I guess.
Tried putting a different ECU in with the same number. Car acted the same.
I’ve even tried bridging the two wire ends at the inertia switch. There wasn’t even a spark when I touched them with the car on!

So, I’m getting ready to ship my ECU to P.T. Schram, because I’m completely lost. I don’t have the red LED in the dashboard at all that would indicate immobilization.

These trucks are really something...

If there’s anyone around Fort Wayne, Indiana who wants to come mess around with it (for $$$) you’re more than welcome to.

 

Just ship the ECU and 10as to PT, unless you wanna buy the hardware to program them. It’s the most finicky part of the truck.