Gardenia
#1
Gardenia
A big thumb up to Reception Rover for advice on posting to the right forum.
My earlier post was asking for help with brake issues. I have replaced master cylinder, calipers, pads and portion of brake line and still do not have sufficient brakes. got advice to bleed brakes again. I gladly welcome others opinions.
My earlier post was asking for help with brake issues. I have replaced master cylinder, calipers, pads and portion of brake line and still do not have sufficient brakes. got advice to bleed brakes again. I gladly welcome others opinions.
#2
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...s-floor-85034/
this guy just went thru something similar.
turned out to be a bad master cylinder that was brand new
I am assuming you know the proper bleeding procedure, have been watching for leaks and have none.
this guy just went thru something similar.
turned out to be a bad master cylinder that was brand new
I am assuming you know the proper bleeding procedure, have been watching for leaks and have none.
#3
#5
Probably not the problem, but worth a look:
Could any of the calipers have been installed on the wrong sides (e.g. left caliper put on the rt side) so that the bleeder is at the bottom (instead of the top)? If that happens you can't get all the air out - ever. It's not that hard to get them reversed if a guy has everything torn apart at once.
Could any of the calipers have been installed on the wrong sides (e.g. left caliper put on the rt side) so that the bleeder is at the bottom (instead of the top)? If that happens you can't get all the air out - ever. It's not that hard to get them reversed if a guy has everything torn apart at once.
#8
Look between the wheel spokes at the caliper. The bleeder screw on a normally installed caliper would be at the top of the caliper piston bore. If installed backward, it would appear to be further down. I don't know for sure if L/R calipers can be installed backwards but on many vehicles they can. It's just something that could be easy for certain folks to do under the right set of circumstances -- and easy to miss when trying to resolve a brake problem.
The other thing is sometimes it's really difficult to remove air from an ABS system. A lot of manufacturers, especially on newer cars/trucks require the ABS modulator to be cycled with the dealer software tool which engages it and pumps air out (supposedly), or with the key on as in the link above. I've known guys who have had to go back to the Ford dealer a few times because the service guy didn't 'all' the air out of the ABS modulator even following Ford's proceedure. It can be a bugger. Now, on the older Disco's I don't think that's the case, but it could still be air in the abs system. Only takes one or two bubbles.
On the seal, are you talking about the seal between the M/C and the booster, or somewhere else? That seal behind the M/C shouldn't make a difference. It's more of a dust seal. If you're hearing a 'whooshing' sound there it might indicate a leaking master cyl?? or booster (probably M/C since boosters don't usually crap out). In fact, there's usually a weep hole on most vehicles between the M/C and the booster in case the M/C leaks, brake fluid would run down in front of the booster not 'flood' the booster or run inside the vehicle saturate your under-carpet pad or onto the feet pedals where it might cause you to 'slip' during braking. Brake fluid goofs up most rubber and could likely damage the booster bellow if it were to contact it so I would try to keep that area open. Again, IDK what seal you're talking about, maybe you could be more clear and just describe it.
The other thing is sometimes it's really difficult to remove air from an ABS system. A lot of manufacturers, especially on newer cars/trucks require the ABS modulator to be cycled with the dealer software tool which engages it and pumps air out (supposedly), or with the key on as in the link above. I've known guys who have had to go back to the Ford dealer a few times because the service guy didn't 'all' the air out of the ABS modulator even following Ford's proceedure. It can be a bugger. Now, on the older Disco's I don't think that's the case, but it could still be air in the abs system. Only takes one or two bubbles.
On the seal, are you talking about the seal between the M/C and the booster, or somewhere else? That seal behind the M/C shouldn't make a difference. It's more of a dust seal. If you're hearing a 'whooshing' sound there it might indicate a leaking master cyl?? or booster (probably M/C since boosters don't usually crap out). In fact, there's usually a weep hole on most vehicles between the M/C and the booster in case the M/C leaks, brake fluid would run down in front of the booster not 'flood' the booster or run inside the vehicle saturate your under-carpet pad or onto the feet pedals where it might cause you to 'slip' during braking. Brake fluid goofs up most rubber and could likely damage the booster bellow if it were to contact it so I would try to keep that area open. Again, IDK what seal you're talking about, maybe you could be more clear and just describe it.
Last edited by Mark G; 08-04-2017 at 09:49 AM.
#9
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...s-floor-85034/
this guy just went thru something similar.
turned out to be a bad master cylinder that was brand new
I am assuming you know the proper bleeding procedure, have been watching for leaks and have none.
this guy just went thru something similar.
turned out to be a bad master cylinder that was brand new
I am assuming you know the proper bleeding procedure, have been watching for leaks and have none.
The brand new master cylinder was leaking at the booster. So I just got another master and all is good.