It gets better, The shop couldnt try anything because it could not access OBD 2.
 

Title says it all. Computer at the shop could not talk to the obd2. My code reader could also not talk to the obd 2.

hmm i went to advanced auto and had them read mine, then i just bought one of my own.. works fine, Tells me all the codes some are LR exclusive but downloaded coldes with discriptors from the net..Its not reading ANYTHING? can you be a bit more specific ? OBD2 reader does not power up on plug in ? there is no direct connection? it wont read a code ? thanks bro

Sounds like your OBD port is dead, meaning its not getting power for some reason.
This has happened before but they never posted back with the cure.
Start by checking ALL fuses.

Are there any fuses other then the ones under the dash?

Yes, under the hood.

I believe you can check the voltage at pin 16.

I just got off the phone with him, I think its strange that the OBDII isn't reading and his IACV isn't working [possibly due to the ECU.]

I think he should pull out his ecu and check for corrosion and water.

Good idea Spence.

Im kinda just talking for him, I think hes busy working on his ecu. I know it seems like I dont have a life lol. Im being forced to watch the saints game, or at least sit here and pretend to watch.

Anyways, he took apart his ECU and it did have mud and dirt in it. He is cleaning it up I believe and I offered one of my spares to him.

I'm confussed I've heard people talk about the ecu being under the hood but mine is in the passenger under dash. did they move them, I know mine being a 94 there are a few differences than the obd2 models.

hmm.. I dunno what does the rave say?

In everyone I have ever seen its under the black cover next to the windsheild washer fluid.

Mine's under the hood. Window ECU is behind glove compartment.

On the inner fender? only black cover on that side is the fuse block. They must have moved it at some point.

the rave has 4 listed tdi, mfi-t16, mfi-v8, sfi-v8

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ
ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

Engine Control Module
(ECM) (Z132) (300Tdi with
EDC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ
ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

behind RH side of fascia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ
ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

Engine Control Module
(ECM) (Z132) (MFI–T16) . . .

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ
Á

Engine Control Module
(ECM) (Z132) (MFI–V8) . . . .

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ
ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

behind RH side of fascia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ
ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

Engine Control Module
(ECM) (Z132) (SFI–V8) . . . .

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁRÁH ÁrearÁ coÁrnerÁ of ÁengÁineÁ comÁpaÁrtmÁentÁ. . .Á . . .Á . . . Á. . . Á

sorry cut and paste from rave is funky

sorry didn't mean to hijack, but I've been wondering that. I guess I'm just lucky, my ECM will stay dry with my feet.

I had thought I saw mine under there too, but I haven't checked the under hood location so maybe I am mistaken. anyways the power for the OBD2 connector is from the security module, I am pretty sure everything else is either direct grounds or ECU wires. I would check power and ground on the connector first. When I first bought my truck the security module fuse was removed (aftermarket security was installed) and I had no power at the OBD2 port, I wired power directly to it, then after reading the rave manual schematics I found and repaired the actual problem.

I have power at pin 16 as well as grounds on 4 and 5. I also verified continuity between the white/green and white/pink wires between the obd connector and the ecu plug. I even tried another ecu but, still the scanner wont read. I am more than desperate right now.

Bump!!!

my only thoughts would be to check the plug itself, could it be damaged somehow so that connections aren't being made? other than that checking each individual wire.

another thought, drop power down from the switch like I did, I have seen instances in the past where power displays on a meter but disappears once it is called upon. maybe a back feed of some sort.

If you tried a different ecu all-together, and it didn't work, I would say has to be the plug or wiring between the ecu and plug.

the 2 grounds you checked are different grounds, one is a signal ground (kind of like the negative side of a speaker) and the other is a chassis ground. if the signal ground is touching the chassis ground this could cause a problem.

I left my ecu unplugged for the last week and plugged it back in today. It seemed to kinda run fine, if I pressed the throttle the rpms would hover high. If I put it in drive and then back into park and neutral the rpms would be normal again. I drove around for a while and it idles normal in drive but now its back to 2000rpm in park/neutral. I assume this is limp mode again. I have replaced both the IAC and the TPS, could there be any other causes. I also checked the wires between the ecu plug and the obd connector, they are all good but my scanner still wont read. I tired multiple scanners, I check the coneection betweent he port and the scanner. All connections are good. I checked the grounds the best I could and they seemed to be fine. I swapped out ECUs, The new ecu seems to be bad. I am completely lost as to how to handle this, I have never had this kinda of issues with a vehicle before.

If anyone wants to talk to me and persona nd give me some advice please do, My name is Ryan, my number is 408 59nine 1two09. Thank you everyone who has been trying to help. It means a lot to have a forums helps.

sorry for your troubles,

unlikely but are you SURE your throttle isn't sticking open?

Remember if you need to drive it unplug the IACV with the rpms in park around 1000-1200. [not using the gas pedal] You can drive like that for weeks months years, enough time for you to clear your head, take a deep breath and save up a little cash.

94 is obd1

Its a 97

I must say, I think I am about to sell this truck. I am so frustrated with it. I just dont get how I am the only one with this problem.

Coming from BMWs.... I see why land rover has such a bad name. I loved this truck but its testing my faith.

Is it AEL or non?

Does your CEL come on when you wirst turn the key on?

Does it stay illuminated?

In not sure what the AEL is.

CEL dose illuminate on the dash when the key is turned.

It's worth more working right (not much to begin with)

Have you tried taking it to a dealer? How did you get the 2nd ecu to work. It shouldn't have without bring taken to a dealer

Oh you never said it worked. Well it shouldn't. If you have the money take the new ecu and rover to a shop.

Have you ever physically looked at the inside of the throttle

I really like this disco a lot. Its a great vehicle when it runs, And i truly would love to keep it. But I am feeling defeated.

Im wondering what could of changed after I did the head gasket, Could something be wired wrong. Something plugged in wrong.


The CEL is on with the key in position 2 but extinguishes when i run the vehicle. I installed the new ECU and hooked up the code reader and it still did not work. I think if I could figure out the OBD2 issues It would go a long way to fixing the idle issue. As of now, I can unplug the MAF and TPS and not get any codes(or at least that i can check) or CEL.

Yes, I have also replaced the entire upper intake manifold.

Sounds to me like you need to take both ECU's and the truck to a shop with a Rover-compatible scanner. When you replace the IACV and TPS, you have to get into the ECU and tell it to read new values 90% of the time. Sometimes you get lucky, but mostly no amount of fiddling will get it to read right.

They should be able to get into the ECU and see why you can't read it as well. If the light comes on when you turn the key on, but extinguishes when started, it is working, but not throwing any codes. If it is getting funny values, it may be confused and not throw anything until the parameters are right.

Take it to a shop.

Took it to a rover shop, The Autologic could not read the system, They wanted 200 bucks just to tell me why.

Hmm..

I know that you said you took it to a shop. But they may not have had the right tools to speak to the land rover computer. I still say take it to a dealer. I know they suck. But their computers tell a lot more

Once again, The dealer wants more then the truck is worth, I would rather scrap the truck then take it to the dealer.

Ok, I am going to call a few shops and get it down to one.

Sorry. Didn't see your post right above mine.

It shouldn't have cost more than 1hr which at most lr and European specialty shops charge 90$ an hour.

Don't ask the shop if they have a computer. Ask if they have testbook. It is the software that the dealer uses. If they don't have testbook don't waste your time. I use an indie here in Fort Worth that has testbook and he charges me 50 bucks to reset unless there is a problem then he doesn't charge me, lets me fix the problem, and bring it back to have the parameters reset then charges me the fifty bucks just one time. That is what you need to do. No more screwing around with any old indie. And I am with you. Don't take it to the stealership. They are going to charge you an arm and a leg and then jerk your chain some more. Good luck! And don't give up. Mine has been broke down for 3 weeks but I will eventually get it fixed. It takes a while to get them to semi-reliable status and you just can't give up. Hang in there.

We need to you get6b this figured out so that others with this problem can find a cure too.

Autologic should be able to read it. You are not going to get a fix unless someone can scan it. I would highly doubt anyone on here will tell you a fix, and someone needs to be able to go hands on. (with a computer).

If you can not see anything funky with the wiring, you may just have to cough up the $200 and have the shop diagnose it.

What started all of this? Why did you try to read the codes? What was hooked up to it?