Glove box light
Hey all. I've been in the mood for fixing lots of little things on m D1.
Next up on my list is the light in the glove box. It used to work, then the plastic retainer clip on the lamp housing broke off and the rivets which hold the connectors on started to come in contact with the metal cutout which the light used to sit in. Once those rivets contact the metal, I would blow my fuse that lit up my dash gauges.
So when this would happen at night it would give me a pretty good scare. That's when I decided to just remove the light housing to prevent fuse blowing.
That was probably 2 years ago and I just got the bug to try to get it working again.
So far I have fixed the tab of the housing. I super glued the tab back onto the housing, but I figured that alone would not be enough to prevent it from breaking again so I reinforced that tab with some hotglue. I also put a dab of hotglue on the rivets so that they wouldn't make errant contact with any metal.


That worked very well. I was able to get the light housing in and out of the mounting hole without the tab breaking again. I also tested the two connectors to make sure the bulb had continuity (which it does).
Then I saw that the little switch that is activated when the glove box door is opened was kind of sticky so I took that apart and cleaned up all of the parts and that works nice and smoothly now too.

The problem that I am facing now is that the bulb does not light when the glovebox is opened. I pulled the connectors off and measured voltage across them and I am only getting .5 volts when the switch engages (glove box open).
I checked all of the fuses and they are all good.
Any ideas why I would only be seeing .5 volts there instead of 12?
Thanks - Paul
Next up on my list is the light in the glove box. It used to work, then the plastic retainer clip on the lamp housing broke off and the rivets which hold the connectors on started to come in contact with the metal cutout which the light used to sit in. Once those rivets contact the metal, I would blow my fuse that lit up my dash gauges.
So when this would happen at night it would give me a pretty good scare. That's when I decided to just remove the light housing to prevent fuse blowing.
That was probably 2 years ago and I just got the bug to try to get it working again.
So far I have fixed the tab of the housing. I super glued the tab back onto the housing, but I figured that alone would not be enough to prevent it from breaking again so I reinforced that tab with some hotglue. I also put a dab of hotglue on the rivets so that they wouldn't make errant contact with any metal.


That worked very well. I was able to get the light housing in and out of the mounting hole without the tab breaking again. I also tested the two connectors to make sure the bulb had continuity (which it does).
Then I saw that the little switch that is activated when the glove box door is opened was kind of sticky so I took that apart and cleaned up all of the parts and that works nice and smoothly now too.

The problem that I am facing now is that the bulb does not light when the glovebox is opened. I pulled the connectors off and measured voltage across them and I am only getting .5 volts when the switch engages (glove box open).
I checked all of the fuses and they are all good.
Any ideas why I would only be seeing .5 volts there instead of 12?
Thanks - Paul
Last edited by notny41; Mar 31, 2017 at 12:35 AM.
... It used to work, then the plastic retainer clip on the lamp housing broke off and the rivets which hold the connectors on started to come in contact with the metal cutout which the light used to sit in. Once those rivets contact the metal, I would blow my fuse that lit up my dash gauges.
I kept wondering why the 10 amp fuse kept blowing for my dash gages. It was the dangling glove box light making contact with the metal frame.
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