I've noticed in just the last few days the infamous gurgling behind the dash. I'm familiar with the sound from before the HG and rebuild. It's not as loud as before so I'm wondering if it's just trapped air pockets. There's no noticeable coolant loss, or it's very slow. After 500 miles the level has hardly dropped, if at all. I know the brass radiator plug leaks around the threads some, so maybe that has something to do with it? I notice it most right when it starts up.

I suppose I should Teflon tape that plug and bleed the bubbles out again. Then test for exhaust gas in coolant, and check compression to at least see how those new rings are seating. Any extra thoughts are appreciated. Hoping this is a non-issue.

 

well i wood be looking at the rad plug first thing

 

ANY leak will eventually do it. So if the plug is leaking, that's a good place to start. On my 96, it did it when I didn't notice that the super cheap hoses I bought were cut at an angle, so I didn't have the hose seated straight, and it slowly dribbled from there.

Any time you've head that much apart, you run the risk of something leaking. I also hope it's a non-issue, like a hose or something.

 

OK good to know. I didn't even know if a small leak had the ability to form air pockets or if the level would just slowly drop. Did you guys put anything on your brass radiator plug threads or does it just seal well?

 

I took my rover and jacked it up and burped it. Put the jack on the side with the battery. Then start the engine with the radiator plug off, put the heat on high and let it burp its self out. Wait until coolant starts to come out through the radiator then put the cap on and turn truck off. You should be done. Do it again in a few days if you need. If problem consists.... I won't mention it but it may be your hg problem isn't fixed.... :*(

 

Used teflon tape on my plug

 

I did that it helped but still not gone. Now when you accelerate you get a little water sound. What a crap way engineering.

 

Maybe if you bleed the air from the engine when it was stone cold and not running, you would have fixed it the first time. You never bleed a system with the cap off and the engine running.
Give it a try and you will then be OK assuming you don't have an exhaust or coolant leak.

 

If that brass cap is a hardware store taper thread, ditch it and get the "real" brass plug or pick up a few plastic ones.

 

re:
If that brass cap is a hardware store taper thread, ditch it and get the "real" brass plug or pick up a few plastic ones.

IMHO the order of preference would be real brass plug (an English thread / taper), the brass NPT hardware store plug (once used the threads are somewhat changed and buggered, so a new brass correct plug may still need tape), and lastly the plastic plug. Would not encourage re-use of the OEM original age plastic plug, they crack and crumble.