Also, here is a link to a reset procdure that does not require a computer.

Need help with ICV - Page 2

 

Problem is... the truck doesn't run. Unless I can get the flooding issue sorted out I think it will keep being awfully hard to get it running

 

Perhaps you hear spark from inside the truck, but it is actually wire breaking down, etc. If you have an old plug lying around, connect it to a plug wire, lay on mainfold, and crank, to see spark.

 

My brother checked the spark while I was cranking and he said it was definitely good. I was meaning it was strong enough for me to hear it from inside the truck.

I have 2 years old Magnecor 8mm wires.

 

OK - got spark, got fuel pressure, but maybe fuel bad (water in fuel, very old gas, etc.)? Maybe a small squirt of starting fluid?

 

Maybe...

I poured new gas in a month ago, when I was able to get it to run and drive it.

Tried starting fluid.... well not starting fluid exactly, but intake cleaner. Backfired in the intake probably from abuse on the cleaner.

 

This is where i'd start to get it running.
Get yourself a new set of plugs from pepboys or wherever you want.
The champions for a buck a piece are fine. Replace the fuel filter ( good chance it's never been replaced or it's clogged) . Get a good 700cca lead acid battery replace it. disconnect the roll over switch Try starting, if it starts and stalls great. re-connect the roll over switch and reset it and start her up.
Once you get it running you will need to have the oil changed, and the codes cleared, and have the closed throttle reset using approved diagnostic tools. Then diagnose the other faults you listed as necessary.
The ox sensor fault is more than likely.. a bad ox sensor. The stepper (iacv)fault can be caused from it going to or exceeding it's maximum negative or positive value of fully open or fully closed. You may need to investigate this matter further if you still have idle issues and reoccuring codes.

 

Fuel filter is 1 year old. Battery is good, simply needs to be charged. Oxygen sensors were done less than 15k ago. One crapped out but it a post cat one.

I have a few leads to look into, but i'll have to wait a little, it's too cold to work on a truck outside right now. It will be -10 saturday

 

It's been a while but the issue is still not resolved. I worked some more on the truck and here is what I gathered:

Fuel pump is good, I hooked a fuel pressure gauge and the reading was around 38 PSI while cranking, 32 PSI while "idling" and fuel pressure rises as I give throttle.

With warmer temperatures it got easier to start. But I still think the IAC is not set properly, high end scanner said it was at 60 steps on start up. The unplug/plug/rev technique didn't work. Tried it several times.

Usually starts fine on first start up when cold. Problem is when I need to restart it when warm.

I identified the potential issue which would be the MAF. Two different high end scanners gave a reading of 0, and it does not increase as I rev the engine. Is it possible that the ECU is starving the engine because the MAF sends a signal saying that there is no air intake? Therefore explaining why it's easier to start when it's warm outside because air is thinner and less fuel is needed. Faulty MAF can also explain why I have an O2 code on brand new sensors.

If the MAF is the problem would it be better to buy a used one or a brand new knock-off from eBay? Both are around 100$

 

Got a used MAF off eBay. Same high end scanner gives me a reading of 0 lbs/s for the "new" MAF.

It also says the scanner is not able to connect to the ECU with Land Rover program, my brother had to use generic OBD2 program.

When the truck starts fine and when I have to keep my foot slightly on the throttle to keep it running have the same live data readings except TPS and RPM.

Next step would be to try to swap the ECU, I ordered one but I was sent the wrong model so I'd like to trade the MKC104420 I have for a MKC104620 asap, I need the truck