I swapped the ECU yesterday and it still doesn't idle properly. Haven't been able to hook up the scanner yet, I hope this time I will be able to use the Rover specific program.

Just re-read that post, by roll-over switch you mean inertia switch right? Otherwise I wouldn't know where it's located. But I don't think this is relevant because the truck drives fine, it doesn't hesite when I step on the throttle when driving. It starts if I hold the gas pedal, although it tends to sputter when the rpm are below 1000 and I rev it. It fire up only in warm weather, when it's cold it floods itself.

I think I'm getting close to a stealership appointment.

 

Sounds like fuel temp or coolant temp sensor might need to be checked.

 

Live reading of the coolant temp was normal. The truck is hard to start no matter if cold or warm. I have a used fuel temp sensor on hands, I'll try to swap it in.

 

When it is hard to start are you getting fuel PSI (32-34) and spark?

 

yep, steady 38-39 PSI while cranking, once I get it started it drops to 32 PSI. Pressure fluctuates normally with throttle input. I also get spark. Checked all spark plugs today and they don't look fouled.

 

Finally got a whole day of work on it in a warm garage and proper diagnostic equipment.

The truck is way harder to start when cold than when it's hot.

As mentioned in other posts none of the testbooks at my disposal were able to provide Land Rover specific diagnostic. But OBDII generics were checked. The only strange data I had was a 0g/s reading from the MAF. So I moved on and checked it with a scope for any fluctuation in the reading. MAF does work properly, testbooks were simply not able to give the accurate reading.

Grounds were also checked, and tested good.

So we cheated a bit and messed with the bleed screw of the air bypass. The truck now starts fine when hot and idles at 700 rpm. I still need to hold the throttle to start it and doesn't idle by itself when cold.

Long story short, a trip to the dealer is in order. I need to get the ECU and IACV reprogrammed. I thought I could do away without going but it seems it's a necessity, there are no idependant shops in my area.

 

I had an IACV that even when cleaned, and finally when replaced, would not "re-learn" even with all the usual web site posted tricks. I ended up taking IACV and ECU from a donor vehicle. But a trip to the dealer is always fun.

 

That's exactly why I wanted to avoid it haha

 

Check for codes again.
Check for pendings too.
And let's see what you still have..

Does not start at all - you knocked a wire off.
Check the coils and make sure they are all plugged in.

Check the fuel lines fittings that they are all locked down.
Check the MAF wiring is plugged in tight.

 

You and I have allot in common, we both cheat.

Two years ago no issue with cold starts and would idle to 1k then settle to @700. Then last year it started, hard starting cold. So I did the same thing and voila' it starts and sometimes I warm it up with my foot keeping idle at 1k. The system goes into closed loop pretty quick so it's only a matter of time before I need a hookup myself.