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heat problem in the rover.

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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 11:52 PM
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skatelove303's Avatar
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Default heat problem in the rover.

Hey guys, so I'm sitting in the rover and my heat doesn't work it only seems to work while I'm moving but if I'm parked and the heat is on it just goes cold or is cold right off the bat but if I'm driving its fine... gauges all read normal. Am I looking at a bad tstat?
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 08:42 AM
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XCELLER8's Avatar
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check your coolant level first and then bleed the system....you may have air in it and the coolant isnt circulating thru the heater core.......and if that IS the case....then you need to find out why the coolant level was low in the first place
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 09:00 AM
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If a t-stat is stuck open, it is usually the other way around- you get heat(some) when ideling, loose it when driving. Try bleeding the system first, otherwise I'm betting a partially clogged heater core or weak coolant pump. More than likely the first one.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 12:23 PM
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Add another vote to properly bleeding the system. If it was your t-stat, you would see the revers, as stated.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 07:43 PM
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My experience with a bad thermostat (stuck open) is that you have heat while moving and non while idling.
The reason being is that the engine puts off more heat at a higher RPM than idle.
The 3 core radiator on a DI is very effective and it removes a ton of heat.

If your cooling system is full then replace the t-stat and gasket, it will cost you
$15 and take 30 min of your time.
If it continues after that then look into a bad belt, bad belt tensioner and then a bad water pump.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Spike555
My experience with a bad thermostat (stuck open) is that you have heat while moving and non while idling.
The reason being is that the engine puts off more heat at a higher RPM than idle.
The 3 core radiator on a DI is very effective and it removes a ton of heat.
My experience with open or no t-stat:
driving+higher rpm= more coolant flow and more air flow across that very efficient 3-row radiator.

But you're right, a t-stat is a cheap,easy job and removes that as a possibility
 
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 12:06 PM
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So my dad sounds like he wants me to just go ahead and replace the water pump, Tstat and my serp belt (big chunk of belt missing) That should for sure do the job? And a coolant flush to end the job.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 01:25 PM
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If/when you do all that, try to reverse flush the heater core. Then that with what you're doing would remove almost every variable.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 02:37 PM
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Just make sure you put the new belt on correctly it can go on wrong but look right.
Check the tech section for proper belt routing.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by skatelove303
So my dad sounds like he wants me to just go ahead and replace the water pump, Tstat and my serp belt (big chunk of belt missing) That should for sure do the job? And a coolant flush to end the job.
Are you wanting to fix the problem or just throw parts at it.
Send me your number and I'll walk you thru what to do/check.
 
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