Hella 500FF question
#21
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No. I didn't/dont think there would be a time I'd want one and not the other on. At any rate I'm going to the wrecker soon for some new wheels. When I get there I'll also get a real fog switch, wire the lights right, and solder them.
I follow everyone's advice on here on the hardware, why wouldn't infor the electrical, especially since I know less about electrical. ::SIGH:: so for a real switch done the right way I need power coming into the switch to light it. PLUS power from the battery or just a ground? The power to light it I need to pull from somewhere where power is only on when the headlights are on. Fish, you've wired a ton of fog lights. Where do I pull that accessory power from?
I follow everyone's advice on here on the hardware, why wouldn't infor the electrical, especially since I know less about electrical. ::SIGH:: so for a real switch done the right way I need power coming into the switch to light it. PLUS power from the battery or just a ground? The power to light it I need to pull from somewhere where power is only on when the headlights are on. Fish, you've wired a ton of fog lights. Where do I pull that accessory power from?
I would strongly urge you to reconsider having your front lights tied into your rear fogs. The only time you really want your rear fogs on are in fog, dusty road being followed by someone, or maybe when backing as added light. I use my front lights about 10 times more often than my rear fogs. Not to mention tying them together actually complicates things, not simplifies them. But I digress.
For a stock switch you will use 4 of 5 pins. I already outlined them previously.
For the backlight you will want to tap into a parking lamp wire, or even into the backlight power for a neighboring switch. You want your backlight to come on when your parking lamps are on as well as your headlights.
When wiring switches, especially more than one, some 4 flat trailing wire is your friend. Keeps everything nice and tight.
#22
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Ugh, so much to deal with. I dont have 4 flat trailing wire. I also dont even have the fittings to shrink wrap anything. (btw can you do that with a lighter or do you need a heat gun), also, if i do shrink wrap my connections, do i still have to solder them? And how come it's ok to tap into the power supply from a neighboring switch for accessory light but i can't tap into the rear fogs for control? Damn you and "doing it the right way", but i guess i gotta learn. Maybe ignorance isnt bliss
#23
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Ugh, so much to deal with. I dont have 4 flat trailing wire. I also dont even have the fittings to shrink wrap anything. (btw can you do that with a lighter or do you need a heat gun), also, if i do shrink wrap my connections, do i still have to solder them? And how come it's ok to tap into the power supply from a neighboring switch for accessory light but i can't tap into the rear fogs for control? Damn you and "doing it the right way", but i guess i gotta learn. Maybe ignorance isnt bliss
There's a reason these trucks came with one switch for the front Fogs and another for the rear.
The backlight is just a backlight. It's doesn't draw a lot. Plus you want it to light up when you turn your parking lamps on so you'll have to tap into something that is hooked to the parking lamps.
You CAN tap into whatever power you want for the main supply for your lights. I just wouldn't do it. Wiring your truck accessories and lights well will require a bit of time and money. You'll be thankful down the road when you don't have a birdnest of wires.
#24
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