Ok so I took the ecu out and resolder the circuit board to try and fix my back windows so they would roll down. Well I fixed the back windows but now the front ones will not roll up. I can hear a click sound coming from the ecu and the window motor. Now what's really got me is that it clicks now even when I do not touch the window button. The window motor will click on the drivers side then click on the passanger side. Just back and forth. Also noticed that when I hit the drivers side window button it does not make a click in the ecu like the passanger side does. Now what's even worse is that it does it when the keys are not in the ignition. I have to unplug the negative battery terminal to get the clicking to stop. Does anybody have a clue to what the deal is. Please help it's very frustrating. Also heard you can hard wire the windows up but not sure how to do that.

 

Just buy a new ecu and matching security ecu or one with matching numbers

 

Ok so lastnight I took the door panels off and inspected the window motors. I unscrewed the window motor and turned the ignition on. Both front motors came on and just spun. I figured out that they would only spin down and when I pressed the window up button, it would just stop the motor from spinning. So it's not the ecu not the motor. What else could cause the computed to think it needs to roll the windows down without me touching the controls? I'm not the best with electrical stuff. Anybody have an idea of why the motors would be doing this? Back windows work perfect after I resolder the circuit board.

 

a rat nest in the wires? another switch or connection that corroded up and isn't doing it's job?

 

I will look for the corroded switch or connection and report my findings.

 

Ok can any one tell me why I have power to my windows when my car is off? With keys out of ignition I can still roll down and up my windows in the back. The front ones still only go down when the fuse is in. How is this possible ?

 

I would contact Pail Grant or Will Tillery and see if either one has a new window ECU. I am pretty sure you could replace it without concern of having the matching main ECU and security ECU like was suggested.

In the Electrical Troubleshooting manual or the main electrical section it explains that for a short period (like 10 seconds or so) you still have power to the front windows after cutting switch off, to allow driver to roll windows up. Sounds like yours is staying energized, Whichever relay controls that circuit must be hung closed. That would explain the clicking sounds (relay energizing).

I would get a decent meter and start checking circuits.

You could have a solder blob shorting something out in the window ECU as well. I would remove the board again and take a second look. The front windows are controlled by the window ECU just like the rear ones are. If the condition did not exist prior to your resoldering, it must be related to something done during the resoldering or the re-assy, wouldn't you think?

 

I would tend to agree with Danny here, re-trace your steps with the window ECU. I found that cutting off the clips on the connectors made connecting and disconnecting them much nicer. This allowed me to hook up the window ECU outside of its box for testing. In my case, I was going after just the rears- so I re-flowed it but the result was not lasting. I'm thinking about doing the jumper wire and have read that for some it works and others it has crated additional problems. **If you test the ECU outside of the box- wrap some towels around it so that it is not shorted to ground by accident on the key. Don't ask how I know.... Good luck

 

One other thing now that I think of it- In my case, the po spilled about 683 gallons of coffee, well- everywhere. It was gumming up both seat switches and the front window switches. I'm going to check the rears and see what's up before I go into the ECU again.