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Help with belts/cables/hoses

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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 07:21 AM
  #1  
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From: Staten Island, NY
Default Help with belts/cables/hoses

Based on just eyeballing it, and based on the fact that no one seems to have bothered with a write-up that I can find, I am assuming the work I need to do is easy, but I can get easily frustrated with cars so I figured I would check with you all first.

The things I need to replace are:
- Coolant Expansion Tank
- Radiator top and bottom hoses
- Thermostat (current one seems fine, but it was suggested I replace it if I am going to have the hoses off anyway)
- Serpentine belt
- Hood release cable

Does anyone have any tips, tricks or suggestions for replacing the listed items (the parts should all arrive later today)? Or better yet, is anyone within a 1-2 hour drive from Staten Island, NY (the truck can still be safely driven...none of the parts are "broken" yet) and willing to help me out for some beer and pizza (or other items of your choosing)?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 08:50 AM
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Everything should be extremely straightforward. Download the RAVE. I'm assuming you have a new hood cable to go in?
 
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 09:07 AM
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It has been close to a year since I have done any maintenance or upgrades (other than oil changes), so I completely forgot about the RAVE. I should still have that downloaded somewhere. Yes, I did order a new hood release cable (the current one seized, but I have a trick for getting it open). My full shopping list is below if you are interested.

ESR3297 - top radiator hose
PCH000070 - bottom radiator hose (with AEL)
ERR5579 - serpentine belt
ASR1405G - hood release cable
ETC4765G - thermostat
ERR2429G - thermostat gasket
PCF101590K - coolant expansion tank w/ cap
 
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 09:28 AM
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IMHO you may want to consider a cheap ($10 ish) 180F thermostat, rather than oem. Also, check radiator for clogs - get engine heated up, switch off, feel or measure fins on radiator top to bottom. In a vertical line. Water flows driver side toward passenger side, in parallel rows. If sludged up, bottom rows will be more than 10F cooler, because of low flow. Your rad is a style that can be rodded out by an indy rad shop, near me it is like $75, vs $700 new one. Don't trust your heat gauge, use a scanner.

If you can, at least flush the current radiator and the heater core, in reverse directon. You'll need some sealant for the themostat gasket, and 50/50 premix coolant like PEAK (never Dexcool).

Lube hood cable every oil change.
 
Attached Thumbnails Help with belts/cables/hoses-rad-crud.jpg   Help with belts/cables/hoses-p1120320.jpg  
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 09:30 AM
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If doing hoses don't forget the 3 hoses for heater core and flush it good
 
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 09:54 AM
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The truck doesn't have any heat issues right now. Things are just being replaced as a precaution. The truck has never gone over 210 in extreme conditions (fully loaded, up a mountain pass on a 95 degree day), and has never gone over 190-195 at any other time (stop and go traffic on a 90+ degree day or towing a uhaul trailer with all my stuff cross country). I use an App called Torque on my phone to read the temps from the ODBII port.

My patience when working on cars by myself is pretty minimal (which is why my last 3 daily drivers have been new cars). I took it in for an oil change and came back with a list of things I should fix from the shop. If I am doing the repairs myself I intend to do the "minimum" as suggested by the repair shop or risk losing my patience and deciding to drop it off at a junk yard instead. It has only seen 1,500 miles since I moved to NY 10 months ago anyway.

Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the extra suggestions, but ultimately I was just looking for what would make the current repairs go more smoothly or to find a local helper. I don't have enough patience when working on cars without a babysitter to add more things to the list.

I lived with a backyard mechanic when I bought the Disco...so that hasn't been a problem until now.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
IMHO you may want to consider a cheap ($10 ish) 180F thermostat, rather than oem. Also, check radiator for clogs - get engine heated up, switch off, feel or measure fins on radiator top to bottom. In a vertical line. Water flows driver side toward passenger side, in parallel rows. If sludged up, bottom rows will be more than 10F cooler, because of low flow. Your rad is a style that can be rodded out by an indy rad shop, near me it is like $75, vs $700 new one. Don't trust your heat gauge, use a scanner.

If you can, at least flush the current radiator and the heater core, in reverse directon. You'll need some sealant for the themostat gasket, and 50/50 premix coolant like PEAK (never Dexcool).

Lube hood cable every oil change.
Got a part number, Buzz?
 
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 10:48 AM
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Use a Stant 180 for a small block chevy. Drill a 1/8" weep hole in it and rock and roll. Like 4 bucks! Make sure you replace with a white expansion tank. Black ones are ****.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by CUpgt
Use a Stant 180 for a small block chevy. Drill a 1/8" weep hole in it and rock and roll. Like 4 bucks! Make sure you replace with a white expansion tank. Black ones are ****.
Dislike, I'd rather pay $10 for one that doesn't need "customizing".
 
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by fishEH
Dislike, I'd rather pay $10 for one that doesn't need "customizing".
rockauto (not sure if we are allowed to reference non-sponsored websites) has a bunch of MotoRad thermostats for Disco's, ranging from 160f to 195f for $2-$6. I am not personally familiar with either company, but I have a friend who is a fan.
 
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