help needed
help needed
Help needed.
Ok so I have I disco 1 and it keep losing power batt keeps dyeing tachometer not working and on the drive home the radio turns off and the Speedo stops working and all the dash light all go one like the batt light and the brake light all of them go on.
What I have done: changed batt changed alternator checked all leads rechecked new alternator running 13-14 V. checked fuses all good new batt is dead now. Help please
Ok so I have I disco 1 and it keep losing power batt keeps dyeing tachometer not working and on the drive home the radio turns off and the Speedo stops working and all the dash light all go one like the batt light and the brake light all of them go on.
What I have done: changed batt changed alternator checked all leads rechecked new alternator running 13-14 V. checked fuses all good new batt is dead now. Help please
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 88
From: Savannah Georgia
1. Does tach work? If plug in lead on back of alternator not plugged in, or alternator is dead again (rebuilts from parts stores have short life) - tach won't work.
1 1/2 - DISCONNECT (-) BLACK WIRE FROM BATTERY
2. Open underhood fusebox near battery. Find two wires at front. Clean and tighten these conections. This is where alternator power gets to the truck, and where the smaller wire runs over about a foot to the (+) terminal of the battery. Also clean and tighten that connection. That little short wire is what applies charge to the battery.
3. At that same area see the square fuse links. They should be clean and tight, and not blown. The one marked 100 amp is the main fuse so to speak.
4. Clean and reconnect (-) wire to battery.
5. Measure battery volts - should be 12.6 - 13.2 just sitting there, maybe a little higher.
6. Turn on head lights. Battery should be able to run head lights and not drop below 12 volts. If it drops like a stone, dead cell, or not fully charged to start with.
7. Crank truck, even if you have to jump it off. At idle should read 13.8 - 14.2 volts across battery, with nothing on. Turn on stuff (lights, AC, wipers, etc.) and voltage may drop, but should not go below 13.4. If volts drop under load you either have a weak alternator, or more corroded conections (like main ground bond at end of (-) battery cable on frame) to deal with.
8. If truck will run, and battery gets charging volts, but dies overnight, you have a drain (something stuck on) to find.
1 1/2 - DISCONNECT (-) BLACK WIRE FROM BATTERY
2. Open underhood fusebox near battery. Find two wires at front. Clean and tighten these conections. This is where alternator power gets to the truck, and where the smaller wire runs over about a foot to the (+) terminal of the battery. Also clean and tighten that connection. That little short wire is what applies charge to the battery.
3. At that same area see the square fuse links. They should be clean and tight, and not blown. The one marked 100 amp is the main fuse so to speak.
4. Clean and reconnect (-) wire to battery.
5. Measure battery volts - should be 12.6 - 13.2 just sitting there, maybe a little higher.
6. Turn on head lights. Battery should be able to run head lights and not drop below 12 volts. If it drops like a stone, dead cell, or not fully charged to start with.
7. Crank truck, even if you have to jump it off. At idle should read 13.8 - 14.2 volts across battery, with nothing on. Turn on stuff (lights, AC, wipers, etc.) and voltage may drop, but should not go below 13.4. If volts drop under load you either have a weak alternator, or more corroded conections (like main ground bond at end of (-) battery cable on frame) to deal with.
8. If truck will run, and battery gets charging volts, but dies overnight, you have a drain (something stuck on) to find.
Ok I go a new batt and alternator (replacement was bad) Waited a week or so to a new one, get it in got put it in with new batt. Now it won’t start it has power to turn the starter over but it just won’t catch to start the motor. with the old alternator in it started an ran but then puttered out wall i was trying to put it in the covered parking and I cannot get it start again, now could it be the fuel filter or fuel pump i just put a full tank in be for this stuff happened so i don’t really want to drop the tank. Any way to test it or is there something I’m missing to why it won’t start.
Thanks for all the help.
Thanks for all the help.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 88
From: Savannah Georgia
fuel and spark first. After you reset the inertia switch (crash button) on the fire wall.
To test fuel put pressure gauge on "tire valve" of the passenger side fuel rail, should be 32 PSI or more, if not - fuel pump, relay, filter, etc. If not gauge see if it squirts out after trying to crank, depress with match stick and have rag around it catch fuel and don't let it squirt you in the face. Pump only runs for about thirty seconds when switched on, if engine does not start.
To test spark, take off a plug wire, attach to a handy spare plug of any type, and lay on maifold. Crank truck and check for sparks.
If no sparks, think about the crank position switch.
To test fuel put pressure gauge on "tire valve" of the passenger side fuel rail, should be 32 PSI or more, if not - fuel pump, relay, filter, etc. If not gauge see if it squirts out after trying to crank, depress with match stick and have rag around it catch fuel and don't let it squirt you in the face. Pump only runs for about thirty seconds when switched on, if engine does not start.
To test spark, take off a plug wire, attach to a handy spare plug of any type, and lay on maifold. Crank truck and check for sparks.
If no sparks, think about the crank position switch.
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