^ Coke!

 

I have been reading up on that, and I will try again once I go back to the shop tomorrow. I am also thinking that something that important should be in a better place, so I will probably reroute the wires to somewhere more visible.

 

So, next issue. I am getting code 17, which in my list is the throttle potentiometer. I wondered if that could be related to my speed sensor issue. From what I see, 68 is the speed sensor code. Could a potentiometer fault cause an apparent speed sensor failure?
And is there a way to test each of those, or at least spoof the car into thinking that they are working?

 

code 17 indicates a throttle position sensor issue.

 

So I pulled the throttle position sensor. Checked the voltage into the unit from the harness, which was 5.0v. I checked the resistance on the sensor itself, which seemed to change smoothly as I rotated the sensor. I guess the next thing is to check the voltage from the TPS to the ECU.

 

Well, I spent some time looking at the haynes manual, and it seemed to differentiate between the throttle potentiometer and the throttle position sensor. But it says that the throttle position sensor is located on the fuel injection pump. So I think that makes it a diesel item, and I have the 3.7 petrol engine. I hope I am not troubleshooting the wrong component.

 

No RAVE? Discovery

 

I just downloaded it. I will study it some before I get started again.

 

Ok, I am reasonably confused. I am getting code 17, even though I think the throttle position sensor is fine. I could be wrong on that. I also need to leave the speed sensor unplugged to drive, even though when it is plugged in, I get what I think is accurate speed readings on the speedometer. I think perhaps there is something else causing these faults, and it would seem that they could be related. Any ideas?

I put new tires on today. While the tires were off, I checked the bearings and such. There was play in the rear prop shaft, that turned out to be the bolts holding it to the brake drum being loose. Now I am trying to get that fitting off. All four bolts spun freely, so I had to take the U-joint apart, then cut slots in the end of the bolts, and hold the bolts with a screwdriver while I took the nuts off. Unsurprisingly, the drum retaining screw also spins freely, which tells me that whatever it threads into is not attached to anything. I guess I am going to have to tack weld the screw to stop it spinning, then drill it out. But why would anyone manufacture it this way? I might be missing something. Probably am.