Help - She Sounds Like a Diesel!
#21
I wouldn't think that a camera would show such a dark place - especially if it gets any oil on it.
I'm wondering if I should have the truck towed to the dealer for diagnosis. At least they will tell me if it is dirty pick up or something more serious like a camshaft bearing (which is what my dealer tech mentioned it could be).
I'm wondering if I should have the truck towed to the dealer for diagnosis. At least they will tell me if it is dirty pick up or something more serious like a camshaft bearing (which is what my dealer tech mentioned it could be).
#22
#24
Yall ain't going to believe this... I started it this morning and the sound (top end) was still there albeit perhaps not as loud as a week or so ago. It has just sat. I started it again this afternoon and the sound was quieter. As it ran for a few minutes the sound eventually grew very faint. Have not seen the oil light either. A friend and I thought the sound could be something like injectors or something.
Took it for a spin and came back to let it idle more. Now the sound is completely gone and it purs like a kitten. I suppose I'll get some fuel injector cleaner, change the oil and keep on truckin!
Took it for a spin and came back to let it idle more. Now the sound is completely gone and it purs like a kitten. I suppose I'll get some fuel injector cleaner, change the oil and keep on truckin!
#26
So here is what is happening. The truck runs fine when I first start it up. After driving for about 5 miles the oil light begins to come on and off intermittently. Let it sit for a few mins and it is fine again for a few miles until the light begins flickering. I figure the Oil Pump is definitely working. Perhaps it is super dirty in there? Viscocity issue? Not sure.
Should I add some SeaFoam before changing the oil to flush out any debris. Then change oil with conventional and run for 500 miles. Then change back to synthetic?
What was the oil viscosity recommended - 10w-40?
Also, why do you think it is behaving this way?
Should I add some SeaFoam before changing the oil to flush out any debris. Then change oil with conventional and run for 500 miles. Then change back to synthetic?
What was the oil viscosity recommended - 10w-40?
Also, why do you think it is behaving this way?
Last edited by evoking; 01-08-2012 at 05:45 PM.
#27
Ok, you have a sever engine sludge problem.
I do not know what motor oil you have been using or how often you change it but here is what happens.
The oil return passages become clogged and the oil cannot return to the oil pan fast enough to supply the engine with oil.
So the oil level drops to low for the oil pump to pick it up and then the engine starves of oil and the oil pressure light comes on.
DO NOT DRIVE THIS TRUCK!!!
Go buy a can of off the shelf engine flush, like GUNK brand or whatever, follow the directions BUT shut the engine off if the oil light comes on.
Then change the oil and use diesel oil and a cheap oil filter.
Once the oil change is done start the engine and let it idle for 10min, then increase the engine rpm to 1500 and hold for 10min UNLESS the oil light comes on, then let it idle for 10min and add another can of engine flush.
Flush the engine a second time.
Then remove the oil pan and clean up any sludge off of the oil pickup screen and out of the crank case.
Refill with diesel oil and a cheap oil filter, drive for 500 miles and change it again.
Again with the diesel oil, drive another 500 miles.
Change the oil once more and again use diesel oil.
I have no idea where you live, if you live where it is cold use 5w-40, if you use where it is warm use 15w-40.
And by cold I mean in the 20's at night or colder.
Once you have it back on the road use only diesel oil and change it every 3,000 miles.
I do not know what motor oil you have been using or how often you change it but here is what happens.
The oil return passages become clogged and the oil cannot return to the oil pan fast enough to supply the engine with oil.
So the oil level drops to low for the oil pump to pick it up and then the engine starves of oil and the oil pressure light comes on.
DO NOT DRIVE THIS TRUCK!!!
Go buy a can of off the shelf engine flush, like GUNK brand or whatever, follow the directions BUT shut the engine off if the oil light comes on.
Then change the oil and use diesel oil and a cheap oil filter.
Once the oil change is done start the engine and let it idle for 10min, then increase the engine rpm to 1500 and hold for 10min UNLESS the oil light comes on, then let it idle for 10min and add another can of engine flush.
Flush the engine a second time.
Then remove the oil pan and clean up any sludge off of the oil pickup screen and out of the crank case.
Refill with diesel oil and a cheap oil filter, drive for 500 miles and change it again.
Again with the diesel oil, drive another 500 miles.
Change the oil once more and again use diesel oil.
I have no idea where you live, if you live where it is cold use 5w-40, if you use where it is warm use 15w-40.
And by cold I mean in the 20's at night or colder.
Once you have it back on the road use only diesel oil and change it every 3,000 miles.
#29
Please do not confuse diesel rated oil, like Shell Rotella, with diesel fuel oil #2 (something you burn in a tractor or heater or city bus). Diesel rated oil, of which Spike speaks, has a lot more cleaning compounds built in. This is because diesels produce a lot of soot in blowby during operation, their compression ratio is over double that of a gas engine. To control this soot in the oil, extra cleaning things are added, and the oil is formulated to keep it in suspension, so the oil filter will grab it. Some regular oils just let it sink to the bottom. And when Spike says change the oil, he means the filter as well, because this process is designed to move the gunk from the engine to the filter.
There is also an outside chance that your radiator built in oil cooler could be involved, I had one that was 95% restricted on a used radiator I tried. But do the gunk first. Gunk is basically kerosene.
There is also an outside chance that your radiator built in oil cooler could be involved, I had one that was 95% restricted on a used radiator I tried. But do the gunk first. Gunk is basically kerosene.
#30
Please do not confuse diesel rated oil, like Shell Rotella, with diesel fuel oil #2 (something you burn in a tractor or heater or city bus). Diesel rated oil, of which Spike speaks, has a lot more cleaning compounds built in. This is because diesels produce a lot of soot in blowby during operation, their compression ratio is over double that of a gas engine. To control this soot in the oil, extra cleaning things are added, and the oil is formulated to keep it in suspension, so the oil filter will grab it. Some regular oils just let it sink to the bottom. And when Spike says change the oil, he means the filter as well, because this process is designed to move the gunk from the engine to the filter.
There is also an outside chance that your radiator built in oil cooler could be involved, I had one that was 95% restricted on a used radiator I tried. But do the gunk first. Gunk is basically kerosene.
There is also an outside chance that your radiator built in oil cooler could be involved, I had one that was 95% restricted on a used radiator I tried. But do the gunk first. Gunk is basically kerosene.
In semi's they go upto 25,000 miles on a single oil change, diesel oil is one hell of a good heavy duty oil with TONS of detergents to clean things up adn to keep them clean.