Just to be sure I'm gonna do things right the first time, I will from now on slam my hand in the door just to get started!

Okay, so now that's out of the way, let's see how many times I can take this wheel and hub off in a weekend.

Here's what I've got:


After replacing the inner and outer wheel bearings (the grease in old ones from china was cooked) the noise I'm hearing did not go away. I know I need to replace the stub axle (thank you Spike), but what else should I at least check for and/or replace? Perhaps the axle bearing is also wore out and causing the friction?

Thanks to all who post quality instructions on how to do things properly!

 

You have mastered the hard part. See attached write up from the RAVE. Take off those bolts, and it pulls straight out with a good grip. I did this at the boneyard in about 30 minutes, including removing the blown tire and wheel on the donor vehicle. In 102F summer temp. Got home, got ready to pull wheel off my Disco (strange ticking from wheel, after bearings replaced). Dang - found out I had not torqued down the lug nuts properly. Problem solved, and the CV & stub axle are greased up and wrapped and stored on the spares shelf.

BTW - the pull a part boneyards near you have on line inventory, with dates vehicles came on the yard. You can also set it up to email you every time a vehicle of interest shows up. You are lucky to live near large boneyards.

And the best part of the state for fall colors.

 

Thanks SB.. but if I just want to remove the stub axle, replace it and maybe the axle bearing too, I shouldn't have to drain the swivel pin housing, no?

I'll post more pics of progress.. I'm determined to find and fix this friction! It sounds awful...

 

Remove the bolts that hold the stub axle on.
It will need to be smacked off with a small hammer, just hit the end of it since it is already bad.
Then install the new one making sure the mating surface is clean.
There is no bearing in there, the wheels ride on the bearings in the hub, the stub axle does NOT move, nothing else in there moves except the axle shaft which is inside the stub axle.
The drive flange slides over the axle shaft and bolts to the hub, that then turns the hub which turns the wheel.
So, remove the stub axle and put a new one on.
I do not know for 100% if the front and rear stub axles are the same or not.

 

Appreciate the info Spike.. but looking at the rave (see pic below), it looks like there is a seal and a roller bearing. #15 is a thrust collar, but what are the odds that I might need to replace that, too?

 

Here is what I do when I am not 100% sure on something, I research it.
Even though the RAVE says something does not mean it is 100% correct, and I am never 100% correct.
Here is a diagram of the hub assembly parts.
Land Rover Discovery I Drivetrain Hub Assembly Parts Available from RoversNorth.com
If I cant order the part then it does not exist is my opinion.
The only way you will know for 100% about that bearing is once you get the thing apart it is there.
I do not believe there is anything there.
But I have almost been wrong before.

 

Yes sir, the research part is what I'm doing right now. And I agree, pulling it apart is the only way I'm going to know for sure... I'll let ya know what I find.

 

That would be a really small bearing and would have to be pressed in I would think.
I have had both of my rear axles removed as well as both rear stub axles, no bearing but the fronts might be different.

 

There is a bearing and seal for the CVJ inside the stub axle. Remove the bearing with a slide hammer, small puller attached. The bearing is small, fits inside the bump that the hub seal rides on.

 

And you'll be draining the swivel oil as soon as you remove those five bolts. It is about the size of a grapefruit in there.