Step 1 – Disconnect Negative Battery Power – Safety Is Always Best Policy
Step 2 – Release Residual Fuel Pressure by “slowly” removing the Fuel Filler Cap


Step 3 – Place Receptacle Under Fuel Filter area to capture any fuel that leaks from the lines


Step 4 – Loosen and disconnect the Inlet connection at the fuel filter (#1 In Pic Below) – Used 5/8inch Wrench
Step 5 – Loosen and disconnect the outlet connection at the fuel filter (#2 In Pic Below) – Used 5/8inch Wrench
Step 6 – Remove the Fuel Filter Bracket bolt (#3 In Pic Below) – Used M13 Socket and M13 Wrench to remove nut from bolt


Step 7 – Remove old Fuel Filter from the bracket –
Step 8 – Insert New Fuel Filter into the bracket – Verify that the new Fuel Filter is properly placed into the bracket with the flow marker towards the Front (Engine compartment) of the Disco –
Step 9 – Verify the O-Rings are removed from old fuel filter – if present
Step 10 – Verify the O-Rings are in good condition – Replace if necessary
Step 11 – Insert O-Rings over the nipple end of the Inlet and Outlet Fuel Line
Step 12 – Start and hand tighten the Inlet and Outlet fuel lines
Step 13 – Tighten the bracket to the frame using the bracket nut and bolt –
Step 14 – Tighten the Inlet and Outlet fuel lines using 5/8inch wrench
Step 15 – Replace Fuel Filler Cap normally
Step 16 – Replace Negative Connection at Battery
Step 17 – Place Key in Secondary position – Thus starting the fuel pump and pressurizing the fuel system
Step 18 – Verify no leaks at the new Fuel Filter – This will give the system time enough to fully pressurize
Step 19 – Start Your Disco and Use as needed



Hope this comes in handy for someone else needing to do this job!!

In Peace and Agape,
Trav...

 

Thanks Trav, you have to remove the rear wheel to access it though right?

 

I did not remove the rear passenger side wheel to access the area where the fuel filter is located -
I suppose it might have made access to the area easier and less constraining, if I had done that -
but I didn't think it was necessary in my case - As such if those who want an easier job - definitely remove the rear wheel for better access.

Took roughly 30 minutes to do the job - I am a slow "mythodical" worker. Might have taken longer lifting the truck and lugging off the wheel nuts and tire.

In Peace and Agape,
Trav....

 

I always put some Never-Seez on the fitting threads.

 

Anybody know the size of those o-rings? It was pourig rain when I did mine and I think I might have forgot them in the rush to not get drenched. Sometimes I get a hesitation to crank that I feel could be from bad seals at the filter and Pour continuity of fuel delivery.

 

I always remove my wheel for better access, I dont relive pressure in the system either or unhook the battery.
I hate re=programming the stereo and setting the clock, granted I only listen to NPR but still...
I also use Anti-Seize on the threads and because I live in the rust belt I change my fuel filter once a year.
Even with the anti-seize on the threads they still rust.

 

Oh no, say it ain't so...